Fortunately, I was able to find a RV and Boat storage lot. I actually really liked the lot overall and they were good people running the place. I parked there for two years and then I was able to bring the RV back home after some backyard renovations.

But let’s look at the pros and cons and how to make it work for you…

Pros to an RV Storage Lot

The good news is that my parking area was covered. So while not completely protected from the weather, it was an improvement over being left in the open at my home. I didn’t have to worry so much about water leaks from storms which was a big deal.

Another thing about my parking spot, which isn’t always the case with all RV lots, is that my space came with power! It was 30-amp power, and we couldn’t run ACs or heaters. But by having power, I could keep the fridge cold and the batteries charged without issue. That meant that I didn’t have to unload the fridge between tailgates. Saved a lot of time during football season, when I was using the RV weekly.

I’ll say another pro to parking my motorhome in an off-site storage lot was that my neighbors and others driving by my house didn’t know if I was in town or out of town. When you park your RV at your home, it’s obvious when it’s gone. And that likely means you are gone and no one is at home. Makes it easy pickings for people up to no good.

Now, I have a great setup at my house, making it easy to dump my black and gray tanks after a trip. There’s a sewer cutout in the middle of my front yard. But many RVers don’t have that access. Instead, they have to go to a dump station. My RV storage lot had both a dump station as well as a fresh water fill station.

This made it easy to handle the water system on the RV. Except for sanitizing the system (more on that later).

Cons to an RV Storage Lot

The biggest problem for me was that the lot was about 45 minutes to an hour away (depending on Atlanta traffic). That’s one way. So at least two hours out of my day roundtrip to the lot. And no, there weren’t any closer to where I live.

This made it difficult for me to pop in for things like maintenance or if I left something in the RV between trips. I had to get way more organized in everything dealing with the RV since it wasn’t convenient for me.

I will admit that I didn’t winterize my RV as well as I should have after the end of the 2022 football season. While I drained all the tanks, I forgot about the water filter. When a freeze hit, the filter casing cracked and that was a fun way to start 2023. I’m just happy that I went to get the RV a week before my first trip that year. I had time to fix it.

And one of the reasons that I got the RV out of storage early in 2023 was because I knew I needed to sanitize the fresh water system. That’s hard to do when the RV is in storage and it takes a 2 hour round-trip to get there. Who is realistically going to drive 2 hours on Saturday to fill it up with bleach and water and then 2 hours on Sunday to dump it? And since the fresh water fill was not at the dump station, it would mean several trips between the two to completely flush out all the bleach from the system. Not ideal.

Can’t Ignore the Cost

No one is letting you store your RV for free. The closer to the city you are, the more it is going to cost you. Most of the lots around me were going for $150-500 a month. The $150 were basic gravel lots with no power. The $500 and up were for full-service indoor, climate controlled spaces.

And if you have a large motorhome, you’ll likely be unable to find parking close to the city anyways. The long-term storage unit places often have a parking lot for RVs and boats, but also have limited space for large units. The ones near me were limited to 30 feet and under. It’ll be cheaper the further out you go, but that increases your travel time to get the RV.

Uncertain RV Security

I gotta admit that one of the issues I was worried about was RV security. Sure, the lot had an access controlled gate with individualized codes to get in. And was completely fenced in. But I still worried.

That’s when I got the Ring system for the RV. So not only was I paying the monthly fee to park, I was also paying a monthly subscription for the Ring system and also I had to buy the equipment.

There are limitations on the Ring system though. I added a motion detector so if anyone came in, I knew it. There were also cameras – one that I ran inside the RV so again, if someone came in, I’d have a good shot of them. I could also check in to make sure nothing happened inside (water leaks, animals, etc). And I had a camera that looked out the front windshield.

But this also left the storage bays unmonitored if someone came up from the back of the RV. I was working on getting additional cameras, which I could setup on the door or windows to cover the sides.

I was always afraid that someone would put something in the gas too since it isn’t a locking gas cap. I still should upgrade to the locking gas cap, because it’s more likely that it’ll happen on the road (like if I had to overnight in a gas station travel spot with truckers who just don’t like RVers) than a facility with RVers and boaters.

What if the Lot isn’t Covered or Have Power?

For many RVers that have to store their RV in a storage lot, you won’t have a covered spot or power. I will say that I was fortunate to be able to find a lot that had both and could also fit my RV (it’s about 37 feet long so it was actually a double spot at my lot).

If you don’t have power, you’ll probably have to turn the power system off. This means turning the fridge off which means emptying everything out of it. It also means that it is going to be hard to run something like the Ring security system. And you’ll have to be careful with the batteries, possibly even removing them if you have a long storage period. That’s a lot of work (and those batteries are heavy if you have to remove them!)

Some RVers have put solar systems in place, to at least be able to trickle charge the batteries.

Why I Brought My RV Back Home

Even though I had a great RV lot with a covered parking spot with 30 amp power, I still wanted to bring the RV back home for storage between trips.

I had to do a giant backyard project (long story, but don’t buy a house with a pool in it – it’s totally not worth it when you’d rather be in the RV traveling that at home maintaining the pool). But when I took the pool out, I made a parking area for the RV that made the city code people happy.

By bringing the RV home, I was able to not only save on the monthly parking fees, I saved 4 hours each weekend that we had a home football game (2 hours to pick it up and 2 hours to drop it off after the RV tailgate).

By having it at home, I was able to get the RV ready on Thursday nights. I could do the grocery shopping and load it up right there. I could fill the water, check the tires, and do many of the other pre-trip checklist steps the night before. That meant I was getting to the tailgate much earlier (day job work permitting).

And there’s also nothing like having the onboard generator available when the power goes off at the house. I can run extension cords to the fridge and not lose the food in there when there is an extended power outage. And if needed, sleep in the RV with the air conditioner (because I need it cold to get a good night sleep).

RV Storage Lots are Great When You Can’t Park at Home

Not gonna lie, the RV storage lot was a great resource to have when the city told me I couldn’t park in my driveway. And while I eventually was able to move it back home after a really expensive and massive backyard project, I was glad to have the temporary parking lot to park the RV.

It was even better that this lot had power and a covered spot. That gave me more options to protect the RV and made things more convenient. Highly recommend this setup for a frequent road tripper.

See Also:
How to RV Tailgate Like a Pro
7 Common RV Mistakes to Avoid
How to Save Gas while RVing

The post Pros and Cons of RV/Boat Storage Lot appeared first on RV Tailgate Life.

Then you might be tempted to take a home office deduction for a portion of your RV on your taxes.

But this is a bad idea. Let’s explore why, despite what at least one “influencer” is promoting on social media.

First, let’s get a little legal stuff out of the way: RV Tailgate Life does not provide tax, legal or accounting advice. This material has been prepared for informational purposes only, and is not intended to provide, and should not be relied on for, tax, legal or accounting advice. You should consult your own tax, legal and accounting advisors.

RVs and Taxes

Many of you know that when I’m not writing about RVs and sports, I spend my time as an attorney. I’ve even got lots of knowledge (hi Masters in Tax) and experience in tax and accounting. So when it comes time to talk RVs + taxes, I know my stuff.

It’s why I’ll drop in every once in awhile with articles like these:

• How to Maximize RV Tax Deductions
• Fact or Fiction: Registering RV in a Montana LLC to Avoid Sales Tax

Now it is time to talk specifically about RVs and the Home Office Deduction.

What is the Home Office Deduction?

Under the home office deduction, you can write-off a portion of your rent or mortgage expenses, including utilities, on your taxes.

But of course, you have to qualify for the deduction.

Qualifying for the Home Office Deduction

There are a couple of different ways to qualify for the home office deduction in a standard sticks and bricks home (or condo, apartment, townhouse, etc. This can also be a separate structure on your property).

To qualify, your home office must be “exclusive and regular use” for business purposes and then be either the principal place of business or where you regularly meet clients or customers.

So your kitchen table does not count. But a room that you use only for your office space and not a guest bedroom would count.

It doesn’t even have to be a separate room; it can be a portion of an area – a nook or corner area. The idea is that the only purpose of this area is for work and that you use it regularly.

Since we are talking mostly about self-employed digital nomads or professionals that can work on the road, we’ll assume that this home office can qualify as the “principal place of business.”

You Must be Self-Employed

Before 2018, pretty much everyone that worked from home could take a home office deduction. However, that changed with the 2018 Tax Cuts and Jobs Act (TCJA).

Since the 2018 Tax Cut, only business owners or self-employed individuals can take the home office deduction. If you are an employee, your home office expenses are not deductible.

If you file a Schedule C for any kind of business – self-employment, gig jobs, or freelance work – you will likely be able to take a home office deduction. If you otherwise qualify (exclusive and regular use of a portion of your home).

RVs Can Be Your Home

The tax code, in several different places, says that RVs can qualify as homes. For example, for the home mortgage interest deduction that I discussed in-depth in an earlier post.

For purposes of the home office deduction, the term “home” is defined pretty broadly and would include your RV.

But You Likely Won’t Qualify for the Home Office Deduction

Even though your RV can be considered your home, you likely won’t be able to qualify for the home office deduction, even if you are self-employed.

Because of the regular and exclusive use of the area as your home office.

Very few RVs are big enough to have dedicated spaces. Most RVers end up using the kitchen table as their office.

Some people may have converted a bunk area into an office, which would make it more likely to qualify. But if that space is also used as a closet, it wouldn’t be exclusive use.

If you think you have an area that could qualify, make sure that you document it well. Take pictures and videos – do a video tour of your RV that shows the entire thing and where you spend most of your time (ie show that you have separate sleeping, eating, and leisure spaces). Then show the office where you have your office computer, screens, and any other equipment setup.

These Social Media Influencers Say Otherwise

Recently, and what really prompted this article, is that I came across a post by this social media influencer on Instagram. They claim to be a tax preparation service that is powered by AI.

So you probably already know where this is going. In fact, they were so wrong that I’m not even going to link to them.

In their video – and repeatedly in the comments – they say that you can use the home office deduction in your RV. For sitting at the kitchen table or the living room sofa to work. That it doesn’t matter if you use the area exclusively for business purposes or not.

They say that you can use the percentage of time you use your RV for business purposes to claim this deduction.

Like much of the social media tax and law guidance out there, it is wrong. You cannot use a percentage test of how much you use your RV for business vs personal use to calculate the home office deduction.

Now, there may be some other expenses that you can use a percentage test – like say your internet connection. But not for the home office deduction.

AI gone wrong. Again. (Hey, not bashing all uses of AI, but it is also really good at making stuff up. So beware as you see videos like this one spouting all the wrong info.)

What the IRS Says

It’s not just me that says that you are unlikely to qualify an RV as a home office. The IRS has consistently held this position and courts have backed them up.

In Dunford v. Commissioner, 2013 tax court case where the taxpayer lost because the area used as a home office was the dinette area. Court found that it was “implausible to suggest that, in the cramped quarters of a motor home, an unclosed area like the countertop would somehow be exclusively reserved to business activity.” Many other business related expenses associated with their RV travels were also disallowed.

The taxpayer then had to pay not only the taxes, but penalties and interest on top of it. Ouch!

There are many more audits that have also held the same.

Even if You Can… Should You?

We know that you have to use an area of your home (or RV) exclusively and regularly for business purposes in order to qualify for the home office deduction.

Let’s assume for a minute that you do have a space that qualifies for this – say you converted a bunk room into an office space that you don’t use for storage, sleeping, eating, or leisure (no watching movies on those screens or playing video games).

How many square feet is that?

My Tiffin 34PA is approximately 355 square feet in total. In the 36UA model, the bunk bed area is 28″ x 70″ – about 13.6 square feet – with a similar total square footage of 355 square feet. Yes, this is with all the slides out.

Under the simplified methodology, you get $5 per square foot, up to 300 square feet. That’s worth about $68 in a deduction. Is that worth the audit risk?

Under the actual expenses methodology you would use the percentage of your expenses for the deduction. For a Tiffin 36UA using the entire bunk space as the office, that’s 3.83%.

Now you have to figure out the expenses that qualify and make sure you document them. Utilities and interest, insurance, repairs, security, and so on. Yes, you have to have good quality records.

Your deduction would be 3.83% of the allowable expenses. But don’t double count the interest if you are also taking it on the home mortgage interest deduction. Don’t double count things like cellphones or internet access or gas that you deduct directly as a business expense.

What do I do?

I am a part-time RVer – I have a traditional sticks and bricks house and then use my RV on a part-time basis.

My house has an area that qualifies for the home office deduction – a dedicated office space that is only used for that purpose and is also the principal place of business for my company (both RV Tailgate Life and my law practice). So I take the home office deduction for my house.

However, my RV does not have a space that I can qualify for a home office – when I work from the road, it is at the kitchen table (or a co-working space or client location). This means that I cannot take an RV home office deduction.

I am able to take the home interest mortgage deduction on the RV. And when I use it for business travel, I can take the expenses associated with the business travel.

Most RVers Don’t Qualify for an RV Home Office Deduction

The bottom line is that most RVers are not going to qualify to use the home office deduction in their RVs.

Most self-employed individuals that work in their RVs are not going to have a space that qualifies under the “regular and exclusive use” test.

Even if you do qualify, it probably won’t be worth the small savings to justify the documentation required and the increased risk from penalties and interest if it is disallowed by the IRS.

So let’s continue to enjoy the RV lifestyle and find other ways to save some money.

Like these RV tips? Pin for later!

You may also like:
How to Save Gas while RVing
RV Insurance Explained Before You Shop
RV Security System by Ring Alarm Pro

The post Can You Take a Home Office Deduction in your RV? appeared first on RV Tailgate Life.

They found a nice travel trailer that suits their purposes for a year of stationary living. Once they got it setup on their land with temporary power pole, they had to go about getting their RV ready to live in.

So in their honor, here’s my recommendations for must haves for first time RV owners!

General Advice for New RV Owners

There is a lot of advice out there for new RV owners, especially when it comes to gear. But my advice is probably contrary to most… only buy the absolute minimum when you first get your RV.

With next day shipping from Amazon and same day curb-side pickup from Home Depot and Walmart, you can easily get more stuff later on, as you need it. Plus, for many things, you can go shopping in your own home, especially kitchen gear where you may already have duplicates.

On the other hand, storage space is limited in an RV and who wants to store stuff that they will never use?

So let’s take a look at what you need for that first weekend in your RV.

See Also: A Guide to Common RV Abbreviations and Slang

The Absolute Must Have RV Products

Sewer hoses

One of the biggest issues with RVs is the sewer system. And how you get rid of the waste. That’s where sewer hoses come in.

Some RVs may come with sewer hoses. But often these sewer hoses are ridiculously thin or may not even have connectors on the end!

For under $50, you can get a good quality RV sewer hose kit that includes two 10 foot long sewer hoses, connectors to connect the sewer hoses together and to the RV and a clear elbow adapter to connect to the sewer hookup.

Most RVers are going to be fine with just 20 feet of sewer hose. On occasion, you may find that you have a dump station or hookup just a little further away. In that case, you’ll probably want to add a couple more sections of hose. I would stick with the 10 feet long sections since they are easily stored and connected together.

You’ll probably also want somewhere to store the sewer hoses (and fresh hoses, and electrical cords, and all the other stuff). I highly recommend RV hose storage bags. The sewer or black water bags easily hold 4 10 foot sections and a variety of elbow adapters. They are much easier to get into basement storage over the hard-sided plastic container I was using before.

See Also: Do You Leave Black and Gray Tanks Open or Closed?

Fresh water hose

Fill her up! With fresh water.

You’ll want a water hose that is dedicated to only potable water, so you don’t cross-contaminate with waste water. Because eeewww! and potentially dangerous.

To make it easy to keep track of what is what, get a white hose which are typically safe for potable water. And this way, your RV neighbors aren’t silently judging you. 25 feet of hose is normally enough and still easy enough to store. As you RV, you may find you need more, but I recommend connecting multiple fresh water hoses together rather than going with a 50 or 100 foot hose. The longer lengths are just too bulky and hard to handle for the few times you’ll need them.

You can then use a standard garden hose for the black tank rinse, washing the exterior of the RV, or other purposes.

See Also: How to Sanitize the RV Fresh Water System

Electrical Management System (RV Surge Protectors)

One of the big pricey things that I recommend that all RV owners have is a special RV electrical management system. This is like a fancy RV surge protector that does way more than protect against power surges. I mean, it does that too, but more.

Like miswired power pedestals, low and high voltage, and of course surges. Get one that fits your RV power: 50 Amp Total Electrical Protection or 30 Amp Total Electrical Protection.

And while these may seem pricey up-front, they won’t if you ever need them!

First Aid Kit

Safety first! Just like your home and cars need a first aid kit, so does your RV. From bumps and bruises to more serious sprains and deep lacerations, basic first aid is important. Especially when you might be RVing outside of easy access to urgent care. And who wants the deductible for a visit, right?

Read More: Yes, You Need a First Aid Kit in the RV

Emergency Roadside Kit

Again, with the safety. You would have at least a few basics in your car, so why not your RV? This is especially true for motorhomes, when you may not be towing a car. Jumper cables and road reflectors are mandatory.

Being able to change an RV tire? You may just want to call roadside assistance for that one. But those reflectors or flashers can be great to warn off other motorists while you wait.

Basic Living Accessories

For your first night in your RV, you are going to want a few basics – sheets and pillows for the bed, blanket or comforter and probably some towels for your shower. The first couple of nights you’ll probably want to spend eating out, but if you are going to be cooking, you’ll need the basic kitchen setup.

Here, I suggest you go minimal until you know what you want. Or what your RV comes with – hello scratchy comforter provided by Tiffin. But it is also about color schemes and the decorating part – wait until you see what the colors are going to be.

In the meantime, just bring the basics from home.

When you are ready, here are the kitchen accessories that I recommend for your RV kitchen.

Toilet Paper

In the “basic living necessities” you are going to need toilet paper. There is a big debate over RV toilet paper – do yo need it or not?

I’ll start by saying that I have never used RV specific toilet paper in my RV. I am not a fan of 1 ply tissue and it doesn’t even tend to be “ultra soft” no matter what they claim.

I also have found that RV toilet tissue is generally more expensive than regular septic-safe toilet paper. I can buy that at Costco and get enough for the RV and the house at the same time!

Use plenty of water and black tank bombs and you won’t have a problem!

Good RV Insurance

You have just bought a something with a pretty hefty price tag. Now you need to insure it.

This will absolutely be required for any motorhome to be able to legally drive it (state required minimum insurance for any motor vehicles). It will also be required if you take a loan out to purchase your RV.

It is highly adviseable that you buy more than the minimums, to make sure that you are fully insured in case something happens. It’s complicated, so be sure to read about RV Insurance Explained Before You Shop.

The Nice to Haves

As you start RVing more, especially as you travel around, you’ll find that there are some things that are nice to have.

Water filters

When I started RVing, I was doing mostly weekend trips to sporting events where I would be boondocking. I would fill up my freshwater tanks at home where I had a dependable, clean water source without a lot of contaminants – I could drink water out of my home faucet. The water filters weren’t a requirement.

As a I started traveling more and for longer periods, I was getting water from campgrounds that didn’t always have the best water. That meant I needed water filters to help make the water more suitable – for taste and to prevent hard water issues.

Water Pressure Regulator

When I’m at home filling up my tanks, I typically rely on the gravity fill. It’s just easier mostly because it is on the passenger side which is closer to my hose.

But when I’m using the “city water” connections at campgrounds, I want to make sure that the water is coming in at a pressure that won’t damage the pipes or connections. That’s where the RV water pressure regulator is helpful!

These regulators make sure that the water is not coming in at too high a water pressure, which could damage your pipes.

Power Adapters

Sewer Hose Supports

Some RV campgrounds with full hookups require that the sewer hoses be off the ground. Or you may need the help to create a nice slope for gravity to assist with the dumping process. Either way, you’ll probably find that sewer hose supports are good if you stay in a full hookup campground.

I don’t include these on the absolute must haves because not all RVers need them. If you are staying in partial hookups or boondocking, then the supports are likely not necessary. Many campgrounds don’t need or require them. So you can probably wait until later to buy this.

Tire Pressure Monitoring System and Inflators

If you are going to be traveling in your RV and not just staying stationary, then you need to check on your tires before you go.

Many people are comfortable with using a tire pressure gauge before they leave on their trips and then checking at their stops for gas, food, or sleeping. Make sure you get one that reads high enough for the recommended PSI for your tires – big rigs go over 100 psi and many standard car tire gauges don’t go over about 60.

Other people want to know how their tires are doing while they are underway. This is especially important if you are towing (either as your truck is towing a trailer or your motorhome is towing a vehicle), as you may not be able to “feel” what is going on behind you. That’s where a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) comes in. Again, make sure your system is rated for the PSI for your tires (the cheap systems only go to 99 PSI and aren’t suitable for big rigs).

Tire Inflators

Another thing I learned the hard way on my big rig – the gas station air isn’t going to inflate the tires on your big rig. Neither will that Ryobi battery powered inflator (I’ve tried). You’ll need an inflator that is rated for your tires!

I’ve got an old Black & Decker Air Station workhorse straight out of the 90s that I “inherited” from my parents. OK, I borrowed it with no intention of returning it after I found out it works on my RV. I left them with the Ryobi for their cars, so it’s all good.

But if you need to buy something today, the VIAIR inflators are top-notch and I highly recommend!

Outdoor Living Accessories

The best part of RV living is the time we spend outside. So while they are not the absolutely-gotta have to not totally fail at RVing, outdoor living accessories are pretty key to enjoying the RV lifestyle.

At a minimum, you are going to want some camping chairs to sit outside in. Many RV parks have picnic tables and fire rings at your camp site, but not all of them. So you may want to add a portable folding camping table to eat at or serve up food and a propane fire pit for when there are burn bans (often propane fires are still allowed during burn bans).

Once you get past the few basics that you just have to have, you can go pretty crazy. Flags, rugs, tents, you get the idea…

See Also: 10 RV Outdoor Living Accessories for Summer

RV Gear to Wait Until You Just Have to Have It

On many RV gear lists, you’ll find a lot of things for a fully outfitted RV. But many RVers never use these things. So wait until you know that you have to have it.

RV Portable Sewer Tanks

Portable sewer tanks are great when you are staying in one place for a long time and you don’t have a full hookup that includes sewer. But I’m already 7 years into RVing and haven’t needed one yet.

That being said, my aunt and uncle that are doing the stationary RV living on their property needed it from day 1 because while they have convenient water and power, not so much on the sewer dump.

Depending on your setup and needs, a RV macerator pump may also be a good choice instead of the portable tank. You can pump the waste slightly uphill and over a pretty long distance through a standard garden hose to a sewer or septic clean-out. Many people don’t need both the portable tank and the macerator pump, so you can wait to figure it out.

Mattress Toppers or New Mattresses

RVs are notorious for bad mattresses. But I recommend that you wait until you have your RV and spend a few nights in it before you go out buying a new mattress.

First, you may buy an RV with a pretty decent mattress in it already. My first one was pretty comfortable because I bought it used and they had replaced the RV mattress with a comfy residential mattress. And it wasn’t even an RV short mattress which meant my sheets from home worked on it! Win-win!

Then, when I upgraded, oh my. The upgraded foam mattress left much to be desired. I didn’t know this until I had slept on it a few nights. But it was fixed with a nice mattress topper from Amazon.

Generator Exhaust System

First, you won’t need this unless you have an onboard generator to power your RV. But if you do, especially if you spend time boondocking or tailgating, you’ll eventually need an RV generator exhaust system.

These can be homemade or you can buy a system pre-made. The important thing is that they are tall enough to take the generator exhaust up and over your RV.

This helps to protect you and your neighbors from the potential deadly effects of carbon monoxide.

Read more: GenTuri RV Generator Exhaust System

Must Have RV Gear for Your First Weekend Trip

You can go crazy buying gear for your RV. But you may regret it later on, when you have all this stuff and nowhere to store it.

That’s why I recommend that you start with the smallest amount of stuff and then only add what you need as you go.

Like these recommendations? Pin for later!

You May Also Like:
11 Tips the New RVer Should Know
7 Common RV Mistakes to Avoid
RVing in Severe Weather

The post Must Have Gear for Your New RV appeared first on RV Tailgate Life.

Who’s Giving These Tips?

Don’t worry – this isn’t some AI generated BS. These tips are from a real-life RV tailgater.

In fact, I’ve been doing this for a really long time. Over two decades now.

I first started as a friend of the RV tailgaters. This is how I tailgated from the time I first started at Georgia Tech, way back in the “olden days.” We will just say that George O’Leary was the head coach then. That’s how old.

When Georgia Tech used to beat georgia. Yeah, that old. Sigh.

Then in 2014, I went and became a card-carrying member of the RV Tailgate Life. That’s when I bought my first RV – Starter RV. It was a 1990 Winnebago Chieftan. Everything worked, but let’s just say that it had the look of the RV in Breaking Bad.

After a few years of learning about RVing and getting totally hooked, I upgraded to my current RV – a Tiffin Open Road 34PA.

Today, I want to share with you my best tips for RV Tailgating Like A Pro.

Tip 1: Prep Before You Tailgate

Let’s start with what you need to do before you even get down to the tailgate. Preparation.

In fact, preparation may be the biggest and best tip to RV tailgating like a pro.

Because when you prepare, you avoid a lot of mistakes that will make your tailgating experience pretty disappointing.

So here’s what you need before you ever leave home:

• Check your RV maintenance:
  • Oil and generators are a common source of RV tailgating headaches.
  • Empty tanks and check your valves. No leaks that are going to lead to smelly problems please.
• Get a Genturi: Many RV lots require generator exhaust systems to run generators.
• Fill up with fresh water & gas
• Meal plan
• Grocery shop
• Review the travel route (don’t forget game day traffic blockages)
• Have your RV parking passes and game tickets on your phone, printed, or in hand before you leave.

Read More: Tips to Prepare Your RV For Tailgate Season

Tip 2: Know the Parking Lot Rules

It’s important to know the rules and regulations for where you are going to be RV tailgating.

A few of the big rules that you want to know and follow, so you can avoid confrontations with security, police, and your RV neighbors:

When Are Quiet Hours?

Some RV tailgating lots will have quiet hours, similar to RV campgrounds.

The rules will vary by lot, so you’ll want to review them to know what time you have to turn off your generator and/or turn down the music.

Common quiet hours are either 10 PM or Midnight to 7 or 8 AM. During this time, you are restricted on what you can do outside.

Now, not all lots have quiet hours. But those that do, not following them can get you kicked out and banned from the lot.

These are really common at some of the NASCAR lots, where they want some more family friendly and less party-all-night experiences.

Can I run a Generator?

RV tailgates are going to take a lot of energy. A lot of power. And most RV tailgating lots do not come with electrical hookups.

So you’ll want a generator.

But many lots will have restrictions on generator use.

It may be when you can use them (see Quiet Hours).

Or that you need a Genturi or other RV generator exhaust system to protect other RVers.

Or that your generator must be below certain noise thresholds.

When Can I Get There/When Do You Have to Leave

Every RV tailgate lot is going to have rules about when you can arrive and when you have to leave.

Many of these lots are multi-purpose. Like staff or student parking on college campuses. Office parking near stadiums.

So you want to know the rules about when you get there. Often, it is the day before, after business hours. Some colleges though have the advantage of lots of empty fields that can be used for tailgating. For these, you can often arrive several days ahead of time.

It’s also important to know how long you can stay after.

For colleges, that usually means you have to depart before school starts again (Monday morning).

For NFL official lots, that’s two hours after the game. Yuck! It’s a big reason why I try to find lots nearby that aren’t official NFL lots to RV tailgate.

Leaving NASCAR Tailgates

If you are tailgating in the infield of a NASCAR race, you also need to know that there may be times when you CANNOT leave.

Like immediately after the race.

In Atlanta, the NASCAR team trucks use the same exit tunnels that the RV tailgaters do. In order to get them on the road quickly, NASCAR says that the RVs can’t leave near the end of the race or immediately after.

Important things to know if you are trying to get out of town quickly!

How Much Space Do You Get

At some RV tailgates, space isn’t much of a consideration. It’s perfectly fine to spread out.

But in other tailgate lots, you are going to be confined to a very small area.

It’s even smaller in places where they have you packed in real tight, like in the infield at a NASCAR race.

So make sure you pay attention to how much space you get for your RV and your tailgate gear. You may have to make special arrangements if you have a really large RV.

Tip 3: Have the Right Tailgating Gear

If you are going to talk the talk, you gotta walk the walk.

And you’ve got to look the look.

Which means your RV tailgate has gotta look good!

At a minimum, you’ll need:

• Camping/Tailgating Chairs for everyone (plus some for visitors)
• Pop-up Tent
• Tailgate Flags
• Table – with covers and decorations
• Grill
• Tailgate Games (Outdoor Jenga, Cornhole, etc)
• TV and entertainment
• Firepit

You can’t be buying just any tailgate gear – it should highlight your team and showcase your team colors.

Yes, even the grill and coolers should be in the correct color, or at least not in your rival’s colors. So you’ll never see a red grill in my tailgate.

When Coleman first came out with the Roadtrip grills and they were all in red, we spray painted them with high-heat outdoor paint to make the red go away.

Yes, we are those fans.

Read More: Tailgating Gear Reviews

Tip 4: Arrive Early

If you want to RV tailgate like a pro, then you’ve got to get there early!

First off, it gives you the most tailgate time. And if you aren’t maximizing your RV tailgate time, are you really doing it right?

Second, arriving early means that you avoid the worst of the game day traffic. Even if you can’t get there the day before, you want to get there as early as possible to avoid the game day traffic and road closures.

Third, it gives you time to setup the tailgate gear, cook the food, and enjoy an adult beverage or two before your friends and visitors arrive.

Tip 5: Stay Organized!

OK, before some of my friends laugh too hard, I’ll admit that I’m not always the best at this.

But one thing I can say is that I know where the stuff in my RV is, even if you don’t understand the rhyme or reason.

In particular, my tailgating gear.

I know which order and how to pack those basement bays to get ALL the tailgating gear in.

And I know where all the hidey holes in my motorhome are for things like: extra plastic ware, disposable plates, first aid kits, food, rain and cold weather gear, and tools.

Yes, you’ll need all of those things at some point each season. And you’ll look like a professional if you always know exactly where all your stuff is.

Staying organized also helps keep all the clutter out of the RV. And stops you from buying duplicates. No one has room for all that stuff in their RV.

Tip 6: Be Prepared to Switch Things Up

You can tell the real experienced RV tailgater pros from the beginners mostly when unexpected things happen at the RV tailgate.

Like weather. Especially weather.

From rain to cold to intense winds, are you prepared for it all?

Sometimes when it is too cold and windy, we’ve moved the tailgate to inside the RV.

Change is inevitable

But it’s not just the weather.

Since I started with this group, we’ve moved the RV lot 5 times across GT’s campus. And being a downtown campus, there aren’t that many surface lots available for us to keep moving to!

We’ve also lost some friends at the RV tailgate through death, divorces, job changes/moves, and retirement from RVing. But that also means that new RV tailgaters get to join us. New friends to be made.

Experienced RVers know that change is inevitable, but the party must go on.

Tip 7: Leave the Lot Better Than When You Arrived

It’s the leave no trace philosophy at work.

Professional RV tailgaters know that you have to leave the parking lot in at least as good a shape as you found and really, it should be better.

This means picking up the trash and definitely making sure that any grill or fire pit ashes are completely out before you leave. Only leave trash in approved spots or containers, or take it home with you.

Many tailgate lots will provide trash cans during tailgates. Some will even come by once the crowds arrive to leave extra trash bags and recycling bags.

Pro Tip: grab these bags! They are much sturdier than your typical trash bags. They are often contractor grade so less chance of a really ugly mess when the bags break.

But even if they don’t, you should always put trash in a bag. And if your lot doesn’t have trash pickup, then take it to a dumpster. Even if this means taking the trash home first.

What You Don’t Need to RV Tailgate Like a Pro

I think it is important to note that you don’t need a big fancy motorhome.

Yes, I have a motorhome, but my RV tailgate also has fifth wheels, Class C motorhomes, travel trailers.

And although not currently, there have been some van lifers and schoolies that have RV tailgated with us previously.

Some tailgates even have converted ambulances.

Don’t feel like you have to have a big expensive mammoth Class A motorhome to tailgate like a pro.

Everyone is welcome!

When is your next RV tailgate?

You are now ready for your next RV tailgate, just like the professional tailgaters!

Like this article? Pin for tailgate season!

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How To Stream Live Sporting Events in the RV
5 Tips for an Epic RV Tailgate Road Trip
Mosquito, Flea, Tick Repellent at the Tailgate

The post How to RV Tailgate Like a Pro appeared first on RV Tailgate Life.

Is that smell making your already short and cramped shower even more miserable?

The good news for RV owners everywhere – it doesn’t have to be that way! We can fix bad RV shower odors with some simple troubleshooting and then trial and error!

Making RV Showers Awesome

RV showers are notorious for being less than awesome. From small, cramped spaces to a lack of water pressure.

While there really isn’t anything I can do about the small space in my RV shower, I can do everything possible to make the rest of the RV shower experience awesome.

I solved the water pressure situation by installing an Oxygenics RV Showerhead soon after I got my Tiffin motorhome. This helped A LOT.

But I definitely don’t want to be dealing with really bad and unpleasant odors during my RV showers. While you’ll probably deal with this problem at some point during your RV life, the good news is that you can solve the smelly RV shower problem with a little troubleshooting and then trial and error.

What Causes Smelly RV Showers?

There are typically four main reasons that you are going to get a horrible odor when you start up your RV shower.

From the beginning of the system to the end of the system, in order, here are the main reasons you’ll get a bad odor in your RV shower:

1. The water source is smelly.
2. The water heater is causing your water to smell.
3. The valve under the shower is creating the odors.
4. The RV gray tank is a horrible mess.

Let’s take a look at how we can solve each of these problems and get you back to enjoying your RV showers.

See Also: Tips for Dealing with RV Odors

Bad Fresh Water

If your fresh water source has a lot of bacteria or certain chemicals in it, the water is likely to smell. This is going to cause your showers to smell.

You’ll also likely smell the water when using the sinks or toilets in your RV. It may not be as noticeable since your face may not be all up in the water, but it’ll definitely be noticeable in the shower.

To fix this, you really have two options:

1. Find a new source of freshwater. Perhaps you’ve been using campground water and you need to switch over to your onboard tanks.
2. Filters. Lots and lots of filters.

When it comes to filters, you have a few choices. Sometimes it even pays to double up on them.

The easiest is the inline water filter that attaches to your fresh water hose. You hook this up between the water source and your water hose which connects to the RV. This is a great, cheap option if you don’t have an onboard water filter. It filters sediments at 20-microns in size.

Another inline water filter is the Camco Evo Water Filter. It is heavier duty, with activated carbon and a replaceable filter cartridge. It catches impurities over 5-microns in diameter and then has the carbon for additional filtration and to help filter the bacteria.

The top of the line inline filters is going to be a multi-stage filtration system, getting bacteria, cysts, and viruses. The first stage is the 5-micron filter like the Camco Evo filter. Then there is the 0.5 micron filter that removes chlorine, VOCs, and other contaminants. Finally, the third stage filter goes after bacteria, like e. coli, and viruses.

Some RVs, like my Tiffin Open Road, also have water filters that are hooked up to the city water connection in the wet bay. These are also considered “whole house” filter systems, capable of serving several bathrooms. These water filters are commonly available from the big box stores.

Water from the Fresh Water Tanks Smell

If the smell is coming from your onboard tanks, but you believe that the source of the water is clean, you may need to sanitize your fresh water tanks.

Have you ever used a Brita filter pitcher in your fridge for a long time? After months and months of drinking the water and filling it back up, despite the filters, there is this layer of scum that forms on the pitcher.

If you felt so inclined to stick your head in the pitcher, you might find it even smells.

Well, the same thing can happen in your RV fresh water tank. So we sanitize them to get rid of that scum (and the bacteria) and hopefully also the odor.

Read More: How to Sanitize the RV Fresh Water System

Water Heater Causes RV Water to Smell

Does your water smell like rotten eggs?

The likely source of this horrible smell is your water heater, specifically the anaerobic bacteria living there. As this bacteria interacts with the anode rod, they produce hydrogen sulfide. Combined with the magnesium or aluminum of the anode rod, you get this horrible rotten eggs smell.

Fortunately, the fix isn’t hard. To remove the rotten eggs smell from your water heater:

1. Remove the old anode rod.
2. Drain the water heater of all existing water
3. Flush the water heater with hydrogen peroxide to kill the bacteria.
4. Install a new anode rod.

A magnesium anode rods usually last about 1-2 years while an aluminum anode rod lasts about 3-5 years.

Replacing the Anode Rod

Most RV anode rods use a 1 1/16 inch socket. I don’t know about you, but I didn’t have that in my toolbox before I became an RVer.

So if you have never replaced your anode rod before, you’ll need a few things:

• 1 1/16 inch socket
• 1/2 inch ratchet
• Anode rod
• Plumbers Tape

With the proper tools, it is easy to remove the old anode rod, although you might have to put some serious pressure to get it loose. Then put the plumbers tape around the threads at the end of the new anode rod and screw it in.

Oh, and make sure that you’ve turned off the heater and let it cool off before you do this. Otherwise, you could seriously burn yourself!

Shower Valve Smells

If you aren’t noticing any nasty odors coming from your kitchen or bathroom sinks or even the toilet, then one of the likeliest culprits is the valve under your RV shower.

Many RV manufacturers use a special kind of valve under the RV shower because of the limited space.

A HepVo valve is a waterless valve. It replaces a traditional P-trap like you would find in a bricks and sticks house. It provides an airtight seal between the gray tank and the shower using a special membrane or flap that works with water pressure.

The good news: without water, you don’t have to worry about it freezing during the winter, expanding and bursting.

The problem with the waterless valves, though, is similar to any shower drain you’ve seen before – hair (especially when it is as long and thick as mine is), soaps, and oils all build up and create clogs. This prevents the flap from closing. And thus, all the bad smells can come up from your gray tank and into the shower stall area.

Clearing Clogs from Hepvo Valves

So to compound that issue, you CANNOT use a clog removal tool like a snake to clear the hair and other stuff out of the valve. Using these tools can damage the seal that prevents the bad smells from coming up. So you’d remove the clog, but damage the seal. Not a good solution.

Instead, you’ve got to use chemicals and other cleaning solutions. I’m not a big fan of using Drano and other harsh chemicals in my RV tanks. Mostly because I want to protect the seals from degrading. And then also when you go to dump, these chemicals can really do a number on septic systems that many RV campgrounds use.

That’s why I use and recommend Bio-Clean Waste Eliminator. Bio-Clean uses bacteria and enzymes to break down the organic material, like hair and soap film, that live in our drains and pipes. But they leave the inorganic materials, like your pipes, alone.

And once it goes through the Hepvo valve, it will continue to your gray tank, eating up the organic material there. After you dump, the bacteria will continue in the RV campground septic systems, improving how those operate. All good, right?

Traditional Method of Baking Soda + Vinegar to Clear Clogs

Another more time tested method that sometimes works well is the baking soda and vinegar method. Just like you may have used at your home, you can use this in your RV shower as well.

To unclog RV drains with baking soda and vinegar, follow these steps:

1. Pour near boiling hot water down the drain.
2. Add a cup of baking soda to the top of the drain.
3. Pour a solution of 1 cup of vinegar and 1 cup of water over the baking soda.
4. Cover with a container or bucket (mop bucket anyone?). Wait 10 minutes
5. Flush with more hot water.

When you pour the vinegar over the baking soda, it is going to create a chemical reaction that bubbles up. As it works down through the drain, it will loosen up the materials. The hot water after it will clear out a lot of gunk.

It’s not as strong of a solution as Bio-Clean, so you may have to repeat several times. It is a good maintenance option though to run weekly.

The RV Gray Tank Smells

In many newer RVs, the RV black tank has a rinse system that allows you to back fill the tank with high water pressure nozzle that sprays the entire tank. This lets you get a lot of the waste, from toilet paper to poop, that can be left behind on the walls.

Unfortunately, most RVs don’t have a similar system for the RV gray tank. Some high-end systems do, but most of us mere mortals do not have a gray tank rinse system. I find this highly annoying and problematic.

It’s a problem because the RV gray tank can be just as bad a smelly culprit as the black tank. From the hair and soap scum from the showers, toothpaste and makeups from the bathroom sinks, and then food particles from the kitchen sink, there’s a lot of stuff that can get stuck in the gray tank.

It’s one of the MANY reasons that I recommend that you leave your gray tank valve closed when you are at full hookup campgrounds. Only open it when you are ready to dump, so that you don’t let all those bits and pieces settle to the bottom of the gray tank a la a poop pyramid that forms in the black tank.

Anyways, back to the smelly RV showers…

When the Hepvo valve opens up, it can let odors creep up from the gray tank. This is really noticeable at the beginning of the shower when the shower waste water hasn’t flushed it all back down again.

How to Fix a Smelly Gray Tank to Fix Your Smelly RV Shower

The good news is that as long as you have a full hookup, it’s not going to be too hard to fix the smelly RV gray tank.

In fact, you just need to do a lot of laundry, take a lot of showers, and keep filling up your gray tank as far as you can get it. I am talking to the very rim, where you are getting some backup into the shower even.

Then dump the tank all at once. By filling it up, you get to all the upper corners and crevices where waste can stick to the sides. Filling it up with laundry water, if you have an onboard washer, gets you some nice sudsy soaps to help clear out those smells and wash the tank as well. If you don’t have an onboard clothes washer, get to doing all the dishes with Dawn! It’ll do a lot of the same cleaning action.

Dumping a full tank helps use gravity and water pressure to get the larger waste bits out. You know how we recommend that you wait until the black tank is full to empty? Yeah, same thing with the RV gray tank.

Read More: RV Gray Tanks: The Other RV Waste Tanks

Stop Odors During RV Showers

After you’ve checked your water source, cleared out the water heater of bad bacteria, cleared the clogs from your Hepvo valves, and flushed out your gray tank, you should be clear sailing with normal smelling RV showers.

Like these tips? Pin for later!

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The post Fix Awful RV Shower Odors appeared first on RV Tailgate Life.

Maybe the water coming out of your fresh water system is smelling?

Whatever the case may be, it is time to sanitize your RV fresh water system.

Why You Should Sanitize Your RV Fresh Water System

No one wants to be concerned about any bacteria or mold that is growing in the dark and damp spaces below the RV and in the plumbing. But we also want to make RV life as easy as possible.

I know that I have spent way too much money on my motorhome to not enjoy it to its fullest. Which yes, includes taking showers in it, brushing my teeth, and just living like it is home.

I don’t want to worry about bringing in bottled fresh water when I have this large fresh water tank on board.

See Also: Do You Leave Black and Gray Tanks Open or Closed?

What You Need to Sanitize Your RV Fresh Water System

Sanitizing your fresh water tank won’t take any special tools and you already have at least half of them on hand (or maybe all of them).

Here’s what you will need:

• Bleach – household bleach, but not the colored or scented version.
• Funnel – I prefer one with a flexible spout. Do not use the one you use with your generator or engine oil!
• Fresh Water Hose – Use the one you already use to fill up your fresh water tank
• Water bucket
• Measuring Cup

Easy Steps to Sanitizing the RV Fresh Water Plumbing

Sanitizing the RV fresh water system is actually really easy. Just follow these seven steps to a fresh and safe water system.

1. Prepare a bleach solution of 1/4 cup per 15 gallons of fresh water.
2. Pour this solution into the RV fresh water tank.
3. Run each faucet until you can smell bleach.
4. Let the whole system sit and soak with the bleach solution for at least four hours.
5. Drain the fresh water tank.
6. Refill the tank with fresh water tank with fresh, unbleached water.
7. Flush each pipe by opening up the drains and running fresh water until you can no longer smell bleach.

You now have a freshly sanitized RV fresh water tank!

Frequently Asked Questions about Sanitizing RV Fresh Water Tanks

Now You Have Safe, Fresh Drinking Water in Your RV

Now that you have sanitized your RV fresh water system, you can feel safe drinking, showering, washing the dishes, and all the normal life activities that deal with water while you are out RVing.

You’ll save money by not needing to buy bottled water, and it’s better for the environment as well.

Like these RV tips? Pin for later!

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The post How to Sanitize the RV Fresh Water System appeared first on RV Tailgate Life.

But we can learn from others so that we can avoid the most common RV mistakes. And yes, yours truly is sometimes as guilty of these mistakes as everyone else. Let’s just hope that nothing bad ever comes when we don’t avoid these mishaps.

Leaving Your Awning Out

Whether when you go to sleep or when you leave the RV for the ball game, it’s a good idea to pull your RV awning in whenever you leave. It’s a big mistake to leave it out.

When you are away from the RV, you may not have time to get back before a storm hits. A sudden thunderstorm or heavy rain can damage your awning in a big way.

And it doesn’t even have to be raining. Just big wind gusts can do major damage.

I also would not rely on wind sensors on high-end RV motorhomes and fifth wheels. They will bring in the awning when winds pick up, but they may not react in time for sudden gusts. They are a great backup in case you forget, but don’t make it your first line of defense.

Don’t Forget the Awning when Leaving the Campground

One other time that RVers make a big mistake with the awning – when getting ready to leave the campground.

Even long-time RVers will sometimes make this mistake.

A friend of mine told me that last summer, when he was staying at an RV campground that had only partial hookups, he forgot to bring the awning in when he went to go dump the black tank. He wasn’t leaving the campground, so he didn’t do a full pack up to move. And forgot this very important step.

See Also: What to do in an RV when Severe Weather Threatens

Leaving the Waste Tank Valves Open in RV Campgrounds

Staying in a full hookup RV campground comes with a really big advantage – uninterrupted electric, water, and sewer dumps. But it would be a major mistake to leave the waste tank valves open while you are staying the RV campground.

When you leave the black tank valve open, you allow the liquids to slowly drain out while the more solid parts – the poop and the toilet paper – will collect, forming the dreaded poop pyramid.

Meanwhile, some people will argue that leaving the gray tank open is OK. Personally, I still don’t recommend it. Things can crawl up the pipe and odors can come into your RV.

See Also: Do You Leave Black and Gray Tanks Open or Closed?

Not Paying Attention to Electrical Issues

Without electrical systems, our RVs would be nothing but really expensive tents. On wheels.

Yet, I often see RV owners making serious mistakes when it comes to their electrical systems.

Not Watering Their Coach Batteries

First, RV owners are not properly maintaining their RV batteries.

I’ve been guilty of this mistake myself – not checking all the cells in the RV battery to make sure that they are at proper levels.

When this happens, you’ll end up with all sorts of issues. Flickering lights, steps not working properly, and then the generator won’t start or will trip the breaker when a short is created.

It also can prematurely kill your RV batteries, causing you to need a pricey replacement.

See Also: Water Your Batteries: RV Battery Maintenance

Overloading the RV Electrical System

Second, RV owners are notorious for trying to run too many things on RV electrical systems.

If you are running on 30 amps, you should really only run 1 air conditioner. You need to upgrade to 50 amps if you want to run a second A/C.

But don’t forget about dryers – both clothes and hair. Or space heaters. Or microwaves. All power hogs that can easily overrun an RV electrical system.

This starts with breakers tripping. But over time, those breakers break themselves. And won’t stay open.

Not Running an RV EMS

Every time I plug in, whether at home or at a campground, I am plugging my RV into a Surge Guard 50 amp Total Electrical Protection to protect my RV from electrical surges.

But that’s not the only thing that the Surge Guard protects my RV from – it also continuously monitors and protects from low and high frequency issues and voltage drops. Before it even connects the RV to the power pole, it is checking for open grounds and open neutrals.

And it comes with a lifetime warranty. So after you are hit with an electrical problem that the Surge Guard was intended to protect from, they will pay for the damage.

Disregarding Proper Tire Maintenance

From overloading the RV and carrying too much weight to not checking the tire pressure, many RV tire problems are easily avoidable. Not properly maintaining the RV tires is a major mistake that many RVers make.

And this mistake can be deadly! A tire blowout, while not always avoidable, can be disastrous.

The #1 cause of tire blowout is improper tire maintenance – which includes replacing tires when they age out.

Remember, age is your enemy on tires, not the number of miles you drive. Likely, dry rot is going to kill your tires way before the miles do.

While you should always do a pre-departure check, I recommend a tire pressure monitoring system for keeping an eye on the pressure and temperature while you are underway.

And to have an air compressor on-board that is capable of airing up your RV tires. I found out the hard way that many gas stations do not have air compressors capable of filling up a Big Rig’s tires. They just don’t put out enough PSI. (that’s what she said!)

See Also: TPMS: Protect RV Tires with Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems

Not Making and Sticking to a Plan

I can be as guilty of this RV mistake as anyone else. Probably actually, more prone to it than many others. And that’s not making a plan when traveling in the RV and sticking to that plan.

From unplanned side trips down dusty roads that no RV should travel to not having a good idea of where I’m going to park and sleep the next night on a long road trip, I wing it way too often.

And that can lead to disaster. Fortunately, I’ve avoided it so far.

Have you gone down roads that had too short of bridges to clear? Or maybe just end up in a dead end?

But what happens when you are exhausted and can’t drive anymore but there is nowhere safe to park? Do you really want to be on the side of the road while traffic is flying by? Or what if you park in an area that is “no overnight parking” and you get a rude wake-up call from security or even the police?

See Also: Tips for Overnight RV Parking on a Roadtrip

Forgetting The Checklist

Part of the plan every trip is following the checklist. Do you even have a pre-departure checklist?

That pre-departure checklist will include things like checking the awning and slides, picking up all the stuff and securing it, and ensuring that you are in proper shape to depart.

What about a maintenance checklist? Maintenance checklists will help avoid many of the issues – like watering batteries, changing oil, checking the roof – that lead to many of the mistakes highlighted here.

Ignoring Safety Warnings

When you first start RVing, every thing is new. All the beeps and bumps and well, everything pretty much scares you.

But after you’ve got some miles on the tires and hours on the generator, you start to feel like you’ve got it. And that’s when things can get dangerous.

You forget the checklist (see above).

You figure that nothing bad has happened before, so why do you need to put up the Genturi this time? After all, it’s raining and yuck, who wants to deal with that?

Or that pesky beep that signals the carbon monoxide detector has detected something. Or maybe the battery is just low. So you rip it out so you can go back to sleep that night. Or maybe the beep is from the jacks that won’t retract.

Whatever it is, it is really easy to start ignoring safety warnings. And that can be deadly.

So please, do not make the mistake that too many RVers have made and ignored safety warnings. They are there for a reason, after all.

See Also: 8 Annoying Things That Are Actually RV Safety Features

Not Asking for Help

Overall, I’d say that RVers are a pretty self-sufficient bunch. It’s what happens when you hit the road.

You know you are going to run into problems, so you are going to have to find a way to fix them.

But one of the biggest mistakes that RVers make is not knowing when to call in others for help.

Whether that means turning to the RV blogs like this one or YouTube for how-to instructions or asking the RVer next to you at the campground, you should avoid this very common RV mistake.

Remember, most RVers are friendly people. They would love to help you out if they can. Give them the opportunity to pass along some of their lessons to you.

What Other Common RV Mistakes Do RVers Make?

While these are the top seven mistakes that RVers make, I know there are more.

Comment below and let us know what other mistakes we should avoid.

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How to Save Gas While RVing
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Did you like this review of Common RV Mistakes? Pin for later!

The post 7 Common RV Mistakes to Avoid appeared first on RV Tailgate Life.

There are thousands of RVs out there from you to choose from, so let’s take a look at what the important features are to help you narrow down what you want in an RV!

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links for various products below. You get the same low prices and we earn a small commission.

Why RV Tailgating is the Best Tailgating

If you’ve found us before here at RV Tailgate Life, you already know – RV tailgating is the best tailgating!

You make lifelong friends, better than most tailgates.

Because you spend more time with these people.

Here in the South, at non-NFL stadiums/parking lots, it is get there on Friday (or Thursday or even Wednesday) for a Saturday game and don’t leave until Sunday.

You’ll make great friends and a lifetime of memories.

But you can’t have an RV tailgate without the RV. So let’s take a look at what you should be searching for.

See Also: 10 Things to Know About RV Tailgating

Searching for the Best Tailgating RV

One thing that I like to do when I’m searching for an RV (or just daydreaming about the next RV!) is to take a look at RVT.com listings.

In one place online, you can look across dealerships all over the country, at new and used RVs to see what you think you might like. Get a feel for the different prices and different features, then narrow it down to a couple that you want to check out in person.

Then take a daytrip to the RV dealerships to see if they have one similar to your perfect RV. But don’t feel like you have to buy from that dealership. I like to step foot in the make and preferably the model to see what I like or don’t like. Sometimes, I find that what I thought I wanted after looking at the online reviews I really didn’t want after seeing it in person.

So then I return to RVT.com to continue looking and eventually find the best deal anywhere in the country.

Motorhome or Towable RV?

When you are starting with a blank slate, one of the first questions you’ll need to answer is whether you should get a motorhome or a towable RV.

Motorhomes are going to be the self-propelled RVs – the ones with their own engines like a Class A or Class C motorhome. Meanwhile, a towable RV is going to be one that does not have its own engine and will need a truck or large SUV to tow it.

The answer to this is going to depend on several factors:

• Money – for comparable living RVs (ie similar features in size, sleeping, kitchen), motorized RVs are going to be more expensive. Because you have to account for the engine.
• Towing Vehicle – much of the cost savings from getting a towable though will be taken up with the cost of your tow vehicle, if you don’t already have a suitable truck or large SUV to tow your RV. If you already have a suitable truck, then yay, you can bank the money and get an even nicer towable RV!
• Your Comfort Driving – Are you comfortable driving a large motorhome? Are you comfortable towing an RV?
• How Many People Travel? – Different RVs have different capacities, so this isn’t a straightforward answer. But as you look at Tailgate motorhomes, take a look at how many seat belts that they have and whether that’s enough for your traveling party. Also, if you have smaller children that need car seats, you won’t want them in a side-facing seat common in many of the RV sofas. Meanwhile, larger trucks and vans may have more seating available for you.
• Vehicle at Destination – many people will want to be able to go on side adventures during a tailgate and having the tow vehicle available can make it easier to do things like go for a quick trip to the grocery store for forgotten items, etc. Of course, you could also tow a SUV or other vehicle behind your motorhome as well if you think you’ll need one. Or use Lyft or other rideshare options.

Can You Tailgate with a Travel Trailer?

The answer is most definitely, yes.

While I have a motorhome and that’s my preference, many more people tailgate with travel trailers.

One thing that you will want to consider is the parking situation with your travel trailer. Often, you’ll have to park the travel trailer and your truck in separate locations due to space considerations. This usually isn’t a bad thing, but just keep an eye on the combined length of your trailer and your tow vehicle.

Size Matters, Kind Of

When you are looking for an RV, you should keep into considerations on size – length, most importantly. But also height and width.

Not all RVs are created equal here. And the smaller the RV, the more options you have for where you can stay and where you can park.

But overall, specifically for tailgating, the size is rarely an issue. It can be, but when you are in parking lots or open fields, space is less of a consideration than if you are spending a lot of time camping, in say older campgrounds at National Parks.

But smaller RVs can fit into more places than larger RVs. (yeah, it’s a duh, but worth mentioning)

So what’s the best Tailgate RV type?

I’ll say this – anyone that gives you a clear cut, definitive answer for this question is lying to you. I’ve seen all the different types of RVs used for RV tailgating – yes, even vans and skoolies. And converted ambulances.

It is really all about what works for YOU!

Now let’s look into the actual features a little more…

See Also: A Guide to Common RV Abbreviations and Slang

An Awesome RV Kitchen

Like I said earlier, we often tailgate for at least Friday-Sunday for a Saturday college football game.

That means that we are often eating Friday lunch and dinner, Saturday breakfast, lunch and dinner, and Sunday breakfast together. Often as a group in a potluck fashion. And you won’t be feeding just your family. You’ll be having a group – your non-RV friends will be joining you, trust me.

And yes, much of the tailgate experience is ALL about food. Seriously, we eat a lot. And if we aren’t eating, we are talking about the next meal.

For the best RV tailgate experience, you’ll want a nice RV kitchen. This is going to include: the largest fridge that you can fit to accommodate all the food and drinks, a stove, and a microwave — get the hybrid microwave/convection oven. A regular oven is optional, but nice if you like to bake or prepare large meals.

But don’t skimp on RV kitchen storage. Basically, we need to bring our regular kitchens with us.

Sure, we could get by on a handful of basics, but for awesome tailgate feasts, you’ll want it all. Pots, pans, dishes, drink pitchers, kitchen gadgets…. the list goes on and on.

See Also: All the Tailgating Food and Recipes Things

What About Outdoor RV Kitchens?

A lot of new RVs come with a great outdoor kitchen setup – often with a dorm-style fridge, a sink, maybe even a built-in grill. And storage.

These RV kitchens are great, if you have them. They make entertaining easy – you can fill the outdoor fridge with beer and other drinks, have an easy clean-up station, and be the hostess with the mostess.

But if your RV doesn’t come with an outdoor kitchen (and honestly, most don’t), you’ll be creating an outdoor kitchen. And that’s why you need this next feature…

Basement Storage

In the RV tailgate world, we do most of our RV living outdoors. We might sit around watching football games on TV (before or after our game), but we will be doing it outside!

That means that we have chairs! And more chairs!

And tables and lights. Don’t forget the cute table-top decor.

Or the cornhole boards. The pop-up tents for shade. And fans and misting stations. Fire pits.

We’ve got flags, and Genturi systems, and a whole lot of other RV outdoor living accessories.

It doesn’t take long for all this stuff to add up, especially in size. That’s why the RV basement storage feature is so very important!

Can you fit all your tailgating gear into the RV basements? You’ll want to look for maximum RV basement storage. The bigger, the better.

And that pass-through storage you get on diesel RVs — let’s just say “chef’s kiss.”

Sleeping Quarters

Your ideal RV for tailgating is going to depend on how many people you want sleeping in your RV during any given tailgate.

How big is your family? Will they be bringing friends along with them? Do you want your drunk tailgate friends to be crashing with you?

These are all considerations in choosing the best RV for you.

Another thing to keep in consideration, especially if you have small children is when they go to sleep and when they wake up. Usually, kids are sleeping in the living quarters (living room) or in a Class C, the compartment over the driver’s seat. So you’ll want to know whether you can climb around the sofa pull-out when you are ready to get to bed. How loud is the RV? Will the kids be able to go to sleep while the party rages on outside?

Some RVs handle this better than others. They may have drop down bunks over the driver in a Class A or bunk bed compartments in larger motorhomes. Some dinettes fold down into sleeping quarters that don’t take up any extra room. Some RVs, usually travel trailers or fifth wheels, even have separate bedrooms that can hold the other sleepers.

Personally, I wanted a big master bedroom space, but limited other sleeping quarters. One or maybe two other people max. That means it is easier for me to tell my friends that they can only visit the RV tailgate, but not sleep overnight. Keeps things like water usage to a minimum.

Water Tanks – Size Matters

Most RV tailgates happen in school or stadium parking lots. Without hookups.

That means that you have to bring your own water and then carry it away at the end of the tailgate, often without even a sewer dump nearby.

Since we have to bring our own water, the size of your water tanks matter… all of the tanks.

In the case of most RV tailgaters, especially those with larger families, size really does matter. Don’t let anyone tell you anything different.

Not only will you want a sizeable fresh water tank, but you’ll also want sizeable black and gray tanks. Remember, these are the waste tanks and they will fill up once you use that freshwater tank. And most RV tailgate spots won’t have a way to dump your tanks.

See Also: RV Waste Tanks Explained

Entertainment Options

A tailgate isn’t just about the game you are about to go to. It’s mostly about the party, centered around your sporting event (or concert or other event).

Parties are better with entertainment.

That can mean things like cornhole and TVs to watch the games.

It can also mean karakoe and light-up beer pong.

Many of the best tailgating RVs have some of these entertainment options built-in.

• Outdoor TVs
• Satellite Dishes
• HD Antennas for local stations
• SiriusXM for music
• Bluetooth Speaker Systems

Outdoor Lighting Systems

You know the saying “everything gets hotter when the sun goes down”? That’s the RV tailgaters motto.

The awesome thing about night tailgates is how creative you can get. Things light lighting systems are pretty cool.

Sure, you can have simple lights over the awning or door. Or you can go all out with string lights, rope lights, under carriage/slide lights, and on and on and on.

Having as much of these built-in make RV tailgating so much better. At least the setup and break-down that you’ll be doing every weekend.

A Generator to Power it All

Just go ahead and assume that you will not have any power hookups available at an RV tailgate. Sure, a handful of places do, but most do not. And without a generator, you’ll be severely limited on where you can go tailgating.

I highly recommend that you look for onboard generators.

First, you won’t have to worry about carrying gas to refill it. Or you know, actually refilling the generator every couple of hours.

Second, they are very unlikely to “walk away” or get stolen during a tailgate, where some of the stand-alone generators may.

Third, you can run them while you are driving. Making it easier to have the air conditioner cool the RV before you even arrive at the tailgate.

See Also: Required Onboard Generator Gear: GenTuri RV Generator Exhaust System

Solar is a Nice to Have

Solar panels and the battery bank are nice to have for tailgating, especially when the weather is nice and you don’t need the air conditioning.

But take it from this experienced RV tailgater – you need ALL the power and solar just won’t be enough most of the time.

Especially not if you are spending any of your time tailgating in the south. I’ve had 100 degree tailgates in October. Air conditioners are required!

But even most of the entertainment options and cooking and everything else all take up a lot of power.

That’s why I consider solar a nice to have, but not a requirement in a tailgating RV.

Other Nice to Haves but Not Requirements

There are a few other features that are nice to have in an RV for tailgating, but I don’t consider them requirements.

Things like:

• RV Closets – If you are only using the RV for short weekend trips and maybe a week or two for vacation, RV closets aren’t the biggest thing on your priority list. Sure, you won’t turn them down, but the RV closet just isn’t the selling feature like it would be for a full-time RVer.
• Washer and Dryer – Again, this is really nice to have. And I love having mine in the RV. But I don’t consider them a requirement for a weekend trip. They take a lot of water and power to run and if you are just going out for the weekend and without hookups, you can often get by with what you bring.
• Fireplaces – If you go without the fireplace, you’ll usually get a little more storage space in the living area. This can be great for kitchen and RV living accessories. The fireplace can put off some extra heat, but so can a small portable space heater.

These features may be more important for you, though, when you consider other trips you might be taking in your RV. Or maybe you want to spend the entire season in your RV, following your team from stadium to stadium where things like the RV closet and the washer and dryer may be more important.

What are the Best Features for a Tailgating RV?

While there is no one-size-fits-all RV for tailgating, there are some common RV features that I look for in a great tailgating RV:

• An awesome RV kitchen for cooking tailgate feasts
• Lots of basement storage to house all your tailgating gear
• Enough sleeping space for your tailgate family
• The bigger the water tanks, the better.
• Built-in Entertainment Options
• An onboard generator to power it all

Don’t be afraid to search the listings over at RVT.com for some inspiration for your next Tailgate RV!

What do you consider the must-have RV features for tailgating? Comment below and maybe I’ll add them to the list!

Or considering a specific make and model? Drop a comment and I’ll let you know my thoughts on that particular RV for tailgating.

Like this summary of the best RV features for tailgating? Pin for later!

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The post Best RV Features for Tailgating RVs appeared first on RV Tailgate Life.

The price of gas is now cringe-inducing when we even think about taking the RV out on a road trip or plan this fall’s tailgates.

But we can’t let the price of gas stop us from enjoying our RV! Let’s take a look at some of the ways that we can save money on gas while RVing, to take at least a little of the sting out of our wallets.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links for various products below. You get the same low prices and we earn a small commission.

Gas vs Diesel, which is better for RVing?

Way back in the beginning, when you were first buying your RV, you probably did an analysis on gas versus diesel RVs (or trucks).

Back then, the analysis may not have spent too much time on the various costs, but with the recent drastic increase in diesel, this is more important than ever!

Diesel typically gets about 10-15% more power than gasoline powered vehicles.

According to AAA, as of June 20, 2022, though, the average price of regular unleaded is $4.981 while the average price of diesel is $5.815. (And it is going to be more expensive out west than in the southeast.)

That takes away a lot of the benefits in the gas vs diesel debate, at least when it comes to saving gas money while RVing.

Honestly, I wouldn’t use the price of gas and diesel as a strong pro or con in the debate. And it definitely doesn’t make sense to change what type of RV you get based on current prices, since we don’t know what will happen going forward. I’m not going to trade in my RV at this point just based on the type of fuel it uses.

But there are other things that we can do to improve the efficiency of our RVs and thus get better mileage and save money!

Reduce Weight, Increase MPG

If you’ve heard it once, you’ve heard it a million times. Reduce the weight in your vehicle to increase your miles per gallon.

For cars and smaller vehicles, the standard metric is 100 pounds of weight reduced will increase your fuel economy by about 1%.

Of course, RVs, whether that is motorhomes or trucks towing fifth wheels and travel trailers, are a little different. We cannot expect the same gains in fuel efficiency. However, that doesn’t mean that you won’t get better MPG by reducing the weight of your RV.

Plus it is free! And you’ll probably better enjoy your RV without all the extra stuff taking up room in there.

So get to your spring cleaning and declutter that RV!

Travel with Your Water Tanks Empty

A gallon of water weights about 8.35 pounds.

If you have a large fresh water tank, that can be hundreds of pounds of weight that you are potentially unnecessarily carrying around, making your engines do more work and using more gas!

That’s why many RVers will decide to travel with the water tanks empty, preferring to fill up at the campground or near their boondocking location.

And don’t forget about your black and gray tanks too!

You’ll want to travel with those mostly empty as well, to get the best gas mileage. It is useful, though, from a black and gray tank maintenance perspective to throw a few gallons of water in there along with your favorite black tank treatment to slosh around while you are driving. A few gallons won’t do as much damage to your MPG, not like a full tank will. And will provide a lot of benefits to clean everything out.

RV Maintenance is Important for RV Gas Mileage

Keeping on top of your RV maintenance is another great way to improve or maintain your RV gas mileage.

Clean air filters, oil in good condition, good tire pressure and tire alignment… all important aspects in keeping your RV in tip top shape and improving RV gas mileage.

Tire Pressure is Important

Do you monitor the tire pressure in your RV tires? If your tires have too low of pressure, it is going to take more effort for your RV, decreasing the efficiency and the power that your gas provides. Thus costing you more money.

You should always drive with properly inflated tires, but it is especially important when you are trying to save gas money. Get your RV weighed, determine and set the proper inflation, and then monitor the PSI as you travel with a Tire Pressure Monitoring System.

Plan Your Trips Closer to Home

We’ve got a lot of country to cover, but maybe right now, it is better to explore the areas closer to home.

Shorter trips means less fuel. And that means more cash in your pocket.

I know that personally, there are a lot of awesome camping spots in my state or within 2-3 hours of travel time that I still have to explore.

Stay Longer in One Place

Have you ever heard of slow travel? It’s not just the guy in the right lane.

Slow travel is the idea that you get one place and stay there longer, going deeper into what an area has. So if you have a long RV trip planned, spend more time in fewer places – traveling less often between trips. That will save you a ton of money on gas. Often, you can negotiate weekly or monthly discounts at RV campgrounds versus the more expensive daily rates! Double cash savings!

Is Boondocking Still the Answer?

Many of us LOVE boondocking – getting away from the hustle of city life. Or perhaps it’s an overnight RV parking spot on our way to our destinations.

In any case, getting away from the RV campgrounds and boondocking is often seen as an attractive way to save money. But if you are doing this in the south, you’ll want to run your air conditioner all night long. And that means burning gas.

At what point does it make sense to plan your trip with an overnight stay in a campground to save gas money?

See Also: A Guide to Common RV Abbreviations and Slang

RV Travel Day Considerations

You’ve done your maintenance, you’ve decluttered and reduced your RV weight and now it is time to hit the open road.

Let’s take a look at some of the things that we can do to save on fuel costs while RVing, based on what we do on our travel days.

To Air Condition or Not To Air Condition?

It’s no secret that air conditioning takes up a lot of power. It’s why most of us typically cannot get enough solar power to run the air conditioners, and instead have to rely on either hookups or our generators.

And well, our generators take fuel. Lots of it.

If it is possible, try traveling without air conditioning. Using no air conditioning can increase fuel efficiency by 5-25%, compared to using max air conditioning.

If you can’t do that (and well, I can’t, because I live and travel in the south!) then let’s try to reduce the use of air conditioning.

Can you get away using only your dash air? Or maybe one air conditioner instead of two or three?

In my RV, I have two air conditioners plus the dash air conditioning. But I can choose to cool only the front half, closing the bedroom sliding door. That decreases my air conditioning use by half, using only one of the two main units.

If the day is cloudy or the temperatures are not “surface of the sun” hot, I can sometimes get away with just using the dash air conditioning, thus not needing the main units at all. And that means that I don’t need the generator at all, which results in major fuel savings!

It may also make sense to drive in early morning hours or at night, to allow a more comfortable drive without the heavy AC use.

Cruise Control and Steady Speeds

Another good way to save on fuel during your travels is to set a lower speed and maintain that speed.

Most of our RVs and trucks are going to have a sweet spot around 63 mph for the best mpg on the highway. Going faster than this is going to reduce your MPG and cost you more money.

Once you get up to speed, maintaining this speed is going to be a lot more efficient than speeding up and slowing down all the time.

And yes, I totally understand that this may be a “do as I say, not as I do” kind of thing. I totally admit, it’s hard for me to stay in the slow lane. But it is definitely better for fuel costs.

Avoid Idling and Traffic James

We can often plan our trips to avoid rush hours and predictable traffic jams. That doesn’t mean that we always can avoid those unexpected traffic jams due to construction or accidents.

Sitting idle is going to destroy your MPG and cost you money. So when possible, try to plan your trips to arrive at your destination before rush hour. Or use that time to stop and eat dinner, avoiding the worst of the traffic.

Use Waze to check current traffic conditions, but be careful about using the alternative routes that may be suggested. Waze uses car dimensions that may not be safe for the taller and longer RVs. So check those routes against your RV-approved GPS system.

Avoid Heavy Winds and Bad Weather

You’ll want to avoid traveling with heavy winds or bad weather. It’s a safety first kind of thing, but it also affects your fuel efficiency.

Traveling into the wind is going to take a lot of effort. So unless you are truly going west to east and with the winds, it’s likely that you’ll either be traveling against the wind or cross-winds will be hitting your RV. And don’t forget about those windy roads, where sometimes you wouldn’t have those tailwinds.

Fuel Discount Clubs and Saving Money on Purchases

Notice that I saved the fuel discount clubs until last? That wasn’t on accident. It is my preference to do all the other things first and then get to the stuff that will cost you more money.

Often, the fuel discount clubs/cards cost you money. So you’ll need to figure out if they are really worth it.

GetUpside

Have you heard of the Upside app that lets you save on gas? It’s great for finding and then saving on gas when you are away from home.

It’s a free app, available on both Apple and Android devices that let you see the current prices and how much you’ll save on each gallon.

When you claim the offer, you’ll get the savings deposited into your Upside account which you can then cash out later.

Good news – it is not just gas. You can also save on restaurants and groceries too! This is a great way to find restaurants in areas that you are not familiar with. And save money too.

Use GetUpside on your next RV fillup and save an extra 15 cents per gallon with referral code 8NVVBH.

Costco Clubs

One of my favorite places is Costco. (They have some great tailgating chairs, too)

The Costco gas stations are typically pretty RV friendly – long hoses, high canopies, etc. The biggest problem will often be their parking lots. They are busy and designed for cars, not large RVs that might be towing cars.

The basic Costco membership is $60 and that’s good for two people in the same household.

Currently, Costco has regular unleaded at about 20 cents cheaper than the surrounding gas stations near me. It’s going to take me 300 gallons of fuel to break-even on that membership or about 4-5 tanks of gas. It’s usually worth it for me, since I have a Costco near my house that I can use – not just for the RV gas, but also my personal vehicle.

They have a liquor store on-site which is great to stock-up the basic bar at the beginning of tailgate season. I also use Costco for wine and beer, tailgate supplies, and yes, their toilet paper. The Kirkland brand toilet paper is septic tank safe and is generally safe to use in the RV black tanks.

Good Sam Club

Want an automatic 5 cents off gas or 8 cents of diesel at Pilot and Flying J locations across the country? Then Good Sam is the discount club for you.

Currently, the base membership is $29/year. At 5 cents a gallon for my Class A gas RV, that’s about 580 gallons that I need to break-even on my membership on just the gas savings. About 5,000 miles of travel, not including generator time.

But in addition to the gas savings, the retail discounts and free shipping from Camping World and Gander RV and discounts at many RV campgrounds come in real nice.

Join for multiple years and you’ll also get merchandise credits at Camping World or Gander RV. Which makes it an even better deal!

Buy Now: Good Sam Memberships

Save Gas While RVing

We know gas is expensive. But following these tips and then joining the various clubs and cards for discounts will save gas money while RVing.

Like these tips to save gas while RVing? Pin for later!

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The post How to Save Gas while RVing appeared first on RV Tailgate Life.

I have often described my Class A motorhome as part-home, part-vehicle. And who doesn’t love sending your home through an earthquake every couple of days as you move from tailgate to tailgate?

But today, let’s talk about the boring part of RVing, making sure your RV is properly insured. And how you can shop for insurance with specialized RV Insurance agents!

Disclosure: The information provided herein is for informational purposes only. Please consult with an insurance agent or other appropriate advisor before relying on this information, as it is subject to change at any time.

RV Insurance Explained

Back when I had Starter RV, I didn’t care so much about the insurance. I mean, I bought the RV for $4,000 in cash from a friend of mine. It was already 24 years old and barely hanging on! But it was my chance to try out the whole RV life on the cheap.

So I just got the basic vehicle coverage – state mandated minimums for a vehicle to travel on its roads. I wasn’t concerned about the RV itself – if it burned down or got stuck on the side of road, just haul it off and I’d be fine, no harm, no foul.

But then I upgraded to my Class A gas motorhome made by Tiffin. This was a little more expensive than Starter RV. It definitely was not $4,000… I paid more than that for the downpayment and took out a hefty loan afterwards!

Now, it was time to really start looking at insurance options. Because if something happened to this baby, I didn’t want to be left paying off a loan when I didn’t even have the fun part of the RV!

And in the meantime, I definitely don’t want to have my license revoked or for the state to come after me with fines or potential jail time for not having the right RV insurance! That’s where the professionals at Charlotte Insurance come into play!

Let’s Talk RV Insurance Basics

What is it that you are looking for in an RV insurance policy?

Typically, you want to cover the auto part as well as the home part of your RV.

State Minimum Insurance

First, you want to meet all your state minimum insurance requirements if you have a motorized RV – so your Class A, Class C, sprinter vans, etc. That’s just the basic liability insurance that you’ll need. That’s the insurance the protects the other people out there from your bad driving (or at least from accidents that you may cause).

Nerd Wallet has a good summary of state minimum coverages for all states.

Once you get into RVing, it’s likely that you’ll have additional assets that you want to protect. It’s probably advisable that you get more than the state minimum coverage for the liability insurance. After all, people will see that motorhome and think “Payday!” if you are in a wreck with them.

This is also why I highly recommend that you have an RV Dash Cam when you are on the road. Nothing like a little “brake check!” for someone to try to collect a payday from you. At least this way, you’ll have the video evidence to show that it isn’t your fault in such an accident!

Comprehensive and Collision Insurance

Second, there’s the physical damage insurance component – think comprehensive and collision. You are likely not required by state law to have this kind of insurance. But if you are like me and have a loan on your RV, your lender likely requires this.

Comprehensive insurance usually covers things like theft, vandalism, and fire. So that’s pretty important in RV life!

Collision insurance usually covers you in case of an accident. Remember, the liability insurance protects other people. Collision protects you! This is what pays out for repairs to your own vehicle.

Uninsured Motorist Coverage

Third, there’s uninsured and underinsured motorist insurance – this is what protects you in case the guy that hits you has no insurance or not enough insurance. Yes, the other driver would be in violation of the law by not having their basic liability insurance, but they also are unlikely to have the funds to pay you directly for any damage.

The underinsured coverage is even more important when you have an expensive RV – as the other driver may not be insured “enough” to fix your pricey RV. You’ll want enough coverage here to make sure that you can fix your RV even if the other guy’s insurance doesn’t pay out.

Medical Payments and Personal Injury Coverage

When it comes to vehicles, it’s not just the property damage that can happen in an accident. Another big risk is the personal injuries that can happen – whether to you or your passengers or the folks in the other vehicle(s).

That’s why some states require personal injury protection or medical payments coverage. This helps cover medical bills that are a result of the accident.

What About My Homeowner’s Coverage?

If you are a part-time RVer, you may be thinking that your homeowners or renters insurance is going to cover you for any losses to your personal belongings.

That’s likely NOT the case. If you have any coverage for the contents of the RV from your homeowner’s insurance policy, it’s likely going to be quite limited.

You’ll likely not be fully insured on the contents of your RV. It’s best to look into specialized coverage for the contents of the RV!

Moreover, your homeowners insurance is not likely to cover your RV itself, no matter if it is a motorhome or a towed RV.

Again, you’ll want a specialized RV insurance policy to make sure that everything is fulled covered!

See Also: Plugging Your RV into Your Home Electric System

What about Travel Trailers and Fifth Wheels?

For those that are towing a travel trailer or fifth wheel, you won’t need the vehicle coverage on the RV like you would for a motorized Class A or Class C. That’s because generally, the liability coverage of the towing vehicle is going to kick in to cover you in case of an accident on the road.

But that means that you need those coverages on your vehicles themselves! I mean, that truck of yours needs insuring too! Oftentimes, if you bundle your vehicle with your RV, you can get discounts. So it is definitely worth shopping with an insurance agent that knows what they are doing when it comes to RV insurance!

Also, if you are borrowing money to buy your RV, your lender might require that you have insurance to cover physical damage. Definitely check your loan paperwork for your requirements!

Even if you paid cash or your lender doesn’t require it, you will want to explore the comprehensive, collision, and personal belongings coverages to protect your investment.

The good news is that since you don’t need those liability coverages, your insurance is going to be cheaper than it would be for a comparable motorhome!

Special RV Insurance Coverages

So on top of the vehicle and contents coverage we’ve already talked about, did you know that there are MORE coverages available specifically for RVs?

• Towing and emergency roadside assistance is available with a lot of RV insurance plans! And in my experience, it is a lot more affordable to add-on to your insurance plan than to get a separate membership to a roadside emergency club that covers RVs! This can also include locksmiths for when you inevitably lock yourself in or out of your RV, battery jump start service, fuel delivery services, and winching services to get you out of sticky situations.
• Vacation Liability is similar to what you get for injuries around your house – this coverage is for while you are parked and tailgating and protects you from people making claims for tripping over the electrical cord or falling into the firepit.
• Emergency Expenses Coverages can be great for helping to cover hotel and transportation expenses while your RV is being fixed after an accident!
• Pest coverage How would you like to have coverage against pests in your RV? I mean, we all have various problems with them at some point. And mice can be really bad when they chew up the wires in your engine. Some RV insurers have pest protection!
• RV Roof Coverage Some insurance companies also offer up RV roof protection! So when that tree branch comes crashing down, you’ll be protected. And the coverages may even insure other parts of your RV that are caused by roof damage – so the water damage inside that is caused by the busted ceiling light could be covered! Hot damn! Some companies even cover normal wear and tear damage which is unusual in the insurance industry.
• Windshield and Glass Coverage can be really important for those large Class A windshields!
• Pet Coverage would cover vet bills if your dog or cat is injured in an accident or while riding in your RV

Note: not all additional coverages are available with all insurance companies. It’s definitely wise to shop around to see what is available and at what price.

Total Loss Replacement

The other big coverage to note is Total Loss Replacement.

In some cases, this means that if you have a total loss on your RV (it’s totaled in an accident on the highway or it’s burned or flooded), you’ll get a brand new RV of the same model year or later. With the same features or better.

And if you decide that after that you are done with RVing or you don’t want to buy one right now, you can get the original purchase price from the insurance company.

Yes, this is one of the more expensive coverages but with everything going on out there, it may be well worth it if something goes wrong!

What Does RV Insurance NOT Cover?

So RV insurance is not some magical thing that will protect you from all things horrible that could potentially happen to you or your RV.

For example, RV insurance is not going to protect you from wear and tear or improperly maintaining your RV.

Most policies are also going to exclude damage from mold, fungi, or rot. In many cases these are the consequences of not maintaining your RV or not repairing damage quickly.

Some policies are also going to exclude damage from flooding and earthquakes.

Definitely make sure that you know what’s covered, especially if you are in or around flood plains!

Traditional Insurance Agents

In my experience, most insurance agents are horrible at getting RV insurance coverage right.

I have a great insurance agent near home. She takes care of my sticks and brick home as well as various other policies that I have.

But when it came to RV insurance, she was hopelessly lost. And that’s pretty common.

See, most agents don’t have experience with RVs. And when they do, they aren’t going to be pricey Class A motorhomes.

A Class A Big Rig with a large price tag is a specialty product. Not everyone has the experience necessary to be able to find you the best prices and the best coverage!

My First Big Rig RV Quote

Back in 2017, when I bought my RV, I asked that agent to get me a quote.

The quotes were a mess. While the quote was reasonable in price, when I dug into the policy, it didn’t have the right coverage.

Remember, this thing is part house and part vehicle. So is $5,000 coverage on your contents going to be sufficient?

I’ve got 4 good size televisions, leather couches, king size bed, a residential fridge (have you seen the price tag on those lately!?!?!), and a stackable washer and dryer.

And my personal stuff – clothes, personal mementos, dishes and pots and pans, and ALL THE TAILGATING GEAR!

Yeah, $5,000 just isn’t going to cover all the contents on a brand new Class A motorhome!

I can also say that I didn’t like the cost that they had in their muddled together proposal – picking and pulling from various different types of policies to cobble together an RV policy. It just didn’t work for me. That’s why I went with a specific RV insurance policy!

How Charlotte Insurance is Different

The team at Charlotte Insurance is different from most agents.

See, they have a TON of experience in writing RV insurance policies. Like years and years worth of it.

And they are a broker – so they are not beholden to any individual RV company. They can shop around against a whole slew of insurance companies to find the best deal for your motorhome or travel trailer! They can tailor the coverages and prices to your RV and your financial condition…

Can’t afford a lot of coverage? Then they can work to tailor the coverage to fit your price tag!

Charlotte Insurance agents are licensed in over half the states in the United States and are adding more states all the time! Even if they aren’t licensed in your state, they can review your existing policies and make suggestions on where you should improve your coverages!

These guys are experts in RV insurance and can get you the best deal for the coverages you need and want at a good price!

And if for some reason you’ve got coverage that they cannot meet on price, the agents are honorable and will tell you that you’ve got a better deal where you are. They aren’t just trying to get the commissions, Charlotte Insurance really wants to find the best insurance coverage for you!

Aren’t Insurance Brokers Expensive?

No! In fact, they don’t cost you a thing. They are paid commissions by the insurance companies that issue you your policy. That means that you don’t have to pay anything directly.

But more importantly, they know insurance – they can cut through all the various coverages and figure out exactly what works best for you! They can clarify what is and what is not covered by the policy, the deductibles, common situations that you may face and why each coverage is important to your RV lifestyle!

Even if you had to pay a small fee, their job of cutting through all the BS and finding the right policy for YOU would make it completely worthwhile. Because who has time to look at 35 different insurance companies and all their offerings to find something that works best for you??? I know I don’t have time for that!

Do You Tow a Car?

When Marty at Charlotte Insurance was shopping my RV and auto insurance, I learned something new.

It was kind of obvious after I thought about it, but I never explicitly knew this before.

So when you have a travel trailer, the liability coverage for your trailer flows through the truck towing it. Which means if you own a travel trailer, you don’t need liability coverage for your RV.

But what about for the motorized guys? People with Class As and Class Cs often tow a car… I’m one of those people.

One of the reasons that insurance companies often require motorized RVers to include the car is because the same rule applies when you are towing. The towed car is covered by the motorhome’s liability insurance while underway.

You’ll still need liability insurance for when you are driving the car, but you’ll also want to make sure your motorhome’s liability coverage is sufficient to cover both your motorhome and your vehicle.

Tow Dolly and Trailer Coverage

Some RV insurance policies also include coverage for the tow dolly or enclosed trailer for your car, motorcycle, or other toys.

If you are in an accident and the tow dolly is damaged, your motorhome’s insurance will cover it.

But only if you have this coverage on your insurance policy! A great reason to work with an independent broker agent like Charlotte Insurance!

RV Insurance When You Are Full-Time

One of the big factors of the price of your RV insurance is going to be how often you use the RV. In fact, this may be the biggest factor after the specific coverages you choose.

When you are a full-time RVer, it may be really tempting to tell the insurance company that you are less than full-time so you can save on your RV insurance.

But therein lies the problem – you’ve just lied to your insurance company. And that is a big problem!

Sure, you may never get caught. But let’s say that you do get in an accident. And the insurance adjuster starts snooping around because you don’t have anywhere to live until you get a new RV! The adjuster figures out that you are full-time and you lied to them. All of a sudden, your claim is denied, and you’ve lost your coverage.

Additional Coverages for Full-Timers

But it’s not all bad news for full-timers. First, you don’t have that expensive home to maintain nor the associated homeowner’s insurance for it.

Second, with full-time RVers insurance, you can add additional coverages that are commonly found in homeowner’s insurance.

Full timer’s liability can also be had for those that are worried about people having injuries in or around your RV. (It’s the same type of coverage that recreational users get out of vacation liability)

Meanwhile, loss assessment can be used for those that are parts of RV associations – buy an RV lot in a neighborhood and then it is damaged by a storm. The loss assessment coverage is useful for those common assessments found in a neighborhood homeowners association.

Another coverage available for full-time RVers would be secured coverage – this is for full-timers that weren’t quite able to sell off all their sticks and bricks furniture and mementos but don’t keep them in the RV. This coverage protects your items in a secured storage area so you don’t need a separate insurance policy.

Scheduling Jewelry and Other Valuables

It’s pretty well known in homeowners insurance that certain valuables are only minimally covered. Things like jewelry, art work, collectibles are usually limited under the personal effects coverage to $500 or $1,000 per piece.

And that’s not a lot for that engagement or wedding ring!

Once you go full-time and no longer have homeowners insurance, you’ll want to make sure that you have anything valuable like jewelry separately covered. You can have a jewelry policy or you can often schedule them separately in your motorhomes insurance policy.

Saving Money by Shopping Your RV Insurance

Times are difficult right now, coming out of two plus years of chaos and now all the turmoil in the economy and the world. It sure would be nice to save some money on your RV insurance.

That’s why I recommend that you shop with the professionals at Charlotte Insurance who can help tailor an RV Insurance policy for you, your RV, and your financial picture! Protect your family from undue hardship should anything bad happen in or around your RV!

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