But it is annoying to have to get out and put jack pads down under the jacks. Wouldn’t it be better to just press the button and let the jacks go down because you already had permanent RV jack pads installed?

Keep reading to find out about RV SnapPads and how you can get a special discount on your next order!

What RV Jacks Do

RV jacks extend from the body of your RV to touch the ground. These provide another point of contact with the ground other than the wheels.

There are two kinds of RV jacks – and the difference is important to know and understand.

Stabilizing RV Jacks

Stabilizing jacks are important in campers to support and literally stabilize the RV from movement inside the RV.

You know, the sway and annoyance that comes from walking around inside the RV. Or um, the more recreational fun for adults (don’t come a-knocking if the rig is rocking!) If you know, well, you know what I’m talking about.

Stabilizing jacks won’t eliminate all sway and movement, but they aren’t perfect.

Also, while they may help with leveling, stabilizing jacks should not be used to level your camper. You should rely on leveling jacks for that (see the next section) as well as blocks and other leveling methods. They aren’t built for leveling and you could end up with some pretty big disasters if you use them improperly.

Leveling RV Jacks

The other type of RV jacks are leveling jacks. They level your RV from front to back and side to side.

Leveling jacks are specifically designed to take on the heavy duty loads and weight of your RV. (Yet another reason not to overload your RV. It’s not just the tires but also the jacks that can be damaged when you go over the weight limits).

More Variations on RV Jacks

While there are two types of RV jacks, stabilizing and leveling, there are quite a few different common variations of these.

Many leveling jacks come with an automatic leveling option – a powered solution with an internal level to figure out when your camper is balanced. You can then manually adjust, while still using the power, to fine-tune or override the automatic setting.

Many of the stabilizing jacks also come with powered or manual options. For the manual options, I highly recommend a jack drill adapter so that you can use a cordless drill instead of manually cranking and thus wearing you out before the fun of tailgating and camping even begins!

If you are looking for an awesome cordless battery powered drill, I highly recommend the Ryobi Cordless Drill from Home Depot. I use the Ryobi line of tools in both my RV and my sticks and bricks house. Since I have so many of their tools, I have a lot of batteries that I can change out between the tools. And now, I can buy “tool only” instead of the tool + battery for new tools that I decide I just have to have.

Scissor Jacks are a type of stabilizing jacks that are common on trailers and smaller campers. They get the name from the way that they extend, as it looks like they are opening like a scissor.

Tongue Jack is used on trailers to support the front of the trailer, where it would otherwise hook up to your tow vehicle. These can be manual or powered, but powered is easier to setup.

The next kind of stabilizing jack is the Jack Stand that is also used on trailers. These typically have a wider base than other RV jacks which definitely helps with the stability.

There are a variety of jacks, and even manufacturers. Which means what works for some people may not work for you. Keep trying until you find the perfect combination of leveling and stabilizing jacks.

What are RV Jack Pads?

RV Jack Pads are items that you place between the jack and the ground.

Jack pads can be made of a variety of materials – wood and plastic being the most common. But rubber is also an option.

You can make your own RV Jack Pads out of wood. I’ve got wood jack pads as well as wood ramps to place under my wheels. But I have also installed permanent jack pads on my leveling jacks.

Why You Need RV Jack Pads

Since RV jacks are designed and intended to make contact with the ground, there’s a chance of two different mishaps happening. These are both closely related, but still distinct problems that happen when you don’t use jack pads.

Mishap #1: Jacks Sink Into the Ground

The first is that the RV jacks will sink into the ground. This is more common on grass fields after a rain. In other words, when you are putting the jacks down into mud.

You may start on solid ground, but after a good rain, the mud forms and your jacks sink. Oops!

When you go to raise the jacks when it is time to move on, the jacks can be stuck in the mud. A suction type event happens to keep the solid jack surface from being retracted.

When this happens, you may have to get down on the ground so you can help the jacks up. If you are lucky, you’ll have a long piece of wood or metal that you can use to provide an air gap to break the suction and to provide leverage to help those jacks up.

RV jack pads help prevent this kind of mishap with RV jacks by providing a middle layer between your jacks and the muddy ground. The greater surface area also helps to prevent the sinking.

Mishap #2: Jacks Damage the Ground

When jacks are placed on asphalt, or even on grass, they concentrate a lot of weight onto a small surface area.

This can be a problem with jacks sinking into the ground too. But it also causes a similar problem on the other side.

This can be very damaging to the asphalt parking lots that we tailgate in. Even in fields of grass, the jacks can dig in and create holes and divots.

By using RV Jack Pads, you spread out the weight over a greater surface area to help protect the ground surface.

Now, jack pads and even SnapPads are not a guarantee against damage to parking lots. After all, there’s only so much space we can spread out the weight of a Big Rig RV. I’ve seen heavy rigs do some damage to parking lots just by driving on them (especially when the asphalt hasn’t completely cured yet).

But jack pads definitely decrease the likelihood of damage done by the jacks themselves.

What are SnapPads?

One of the problems with most RV jack pads are that they aren’t always on your RV jacks. You have to get out of the RV or your tow vehicle and get down on the ground to place your pads.

This is just so much fun when it’s raining. Or not!

That’s why I really like RV SnapPads, a permanent solution that stays on your RV jacks all the time.

You don’t have to worry about leaving these jack pads behind. You don’t have to get under the RV to place them each time you park. They are there and always ready.

Another side benefit – they are made with recycled tires. Which means they are environmentally friendly, keeping tires out of the landfills.

Special Discount on RV SnapPads

Do you want a special discount on RV SnapPads?

How does 10% off sound?

With the discount code KIMBERLY60334 you can get 10% off your order from RV SnapPads!

Using this link though, it should be automatically applied to your order! Just in case though, make sure to check on the checkout page that the code KIMBERLY60334 has been applied! You won’t see the discount until the checkout page, not the shopping cart page (just an FYI).

Installing RV SnapPads on a Motorhome

I’ve had SnapPads on my motorhome for a few years now and highly recommend them from personal use!

The most difficult thing was to get them installed… and it really wasn’t that difficult. The instructions were pretty clear.

But here are a few tips:

1. You want to have two people for this job. One person that will get under the motorhome and one person to run the jacks from inside. Probably not as big of a deal if you have manual jacks, but definitely want that second person if the automatic jacks control is not mobile/is inside the motorhome like mine is.
2. Get some regular old dishwashing soap. It’s good for lube. Well, lube for SnapPads not for other purposes.
3. Keep your fingers out of the way of your jacks.
4. Start with the bottom of your jacks clean of any dirt or debris. Wipe them off and even hose them down if necessary. Otherwise you’ll be trapping the dirt on the bottom of the jacks in the SnapPad.

Installation Process

OK, now that you are ready to begin, put some dishwashing detergent around the lip of one SnapPad. You are going to install one SnapPad at a time. Don’t try to do all of them at one time.

One person is going to get on the ground to position the SnapPad directly below the jack.

The other person is going to be inside, running the jacks. You’ll want windows open and the radio off. Maybe even some walkie talkies so that you can talk to each other.

Once the ground person gives the OK (and their hands are not under or near the jack), you’ll want to manually lower the appropriate jack. As the jack lowers down, the ground person may tell the other to stop or keep going, depending on how accurately they placed the SnapPad.

The ground person will know when the jack is fully seated in the SnapPad when they hear a distinctive snap. (You didn’t think the creators of SnapPad were being all that creative when they named their product, did you?) Have the inside person raise the jacks to be sure.

Now repeat with all the other jacks on your rig.

Don’t Ditch Your Existing Jack Pads

Even though I have and love my SnapPads, there are times when the DIY wood jack pads still come in very handy.

And that’s when you are parking on unlevel/uneven ground. I use the wood to help extend the reach of my jacks when there’s too much distance to get the motorhome level.

In my new tailgate parking spot at GT, the driver’s side of the RV is much lower than the passenger side. I cannot get the driver’s side high enough without using some additional help from the wood blocks. So I use both the SnapPad and the blocks to get level.

I have found that the SnapPad helps keep those wood blocks in good shape longer though. Before I installed the SnapPad, I’d go through them in about a year’s worth of tailgating because of the concentrated pressure from the metal jacks. Now, I have only gone through one set, although they are still getting near the end of their lifespan.

Add RV SnapPads to your Jacks

Don’t forget to use the discount code KIMBERLY60334 to get 10% off your RV SnapPads.

I’ve had them on my motorhome jacks for years now and really enjoy having them permanently attached. It makes for quicker setup on level(ish) parking spots.

Like RV SnapPads? Or buying later? Pin to remember to get your discount code!

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10 RV Gadgets You’ll Wish You Had For Your Next Tailgate
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Essential Gear for RV Waste Tanks

The post Adding Permanent Jack Pads with RV SnapPads appeared first on RV Tailgate Life.

Well, let’s go inside the Dirty Birds Nest tailgate at an Atlanta Falcons RV tailgate.

It’s so awesome, you may want to just stay and tailgate instead of going to the game. (That’s what I did!)

Disclosure: This page contains affiliate links for various products below. You get the same low prices and we earn a small commission.

The Dirty Birds Nest Tailgating RV

It’s going to be hard to beat these Falcons fans when it comes to NFL fandom and RV tailgating.

Because if there is a spot for an Atlanta Falcons logo, they’ve put the logo there!

After tailgating with the Dirty Birds Nest, you will have absolutely no doubt which NFL team is their favorite.

Seriously, if you drive up and don’t know, I’m just going to assume you are playing stupid.

The center of the Dirty Birds Nest Tailgate is a 1995 Winnebago Vectra 34RA.

New Team Paint Job and Outside Features

The standard paint job on a Vectra is much of what you would expect from mid-1990s RVs. Mostly beige with purple, blue, and teal accents. Not the swirls of today’s RVs. But pretty generic. And plain. And ugly.

So Matt and his friends decided that they needed to do something Falcons.

A buddy of theirs has a vinyl shop, so they went to town. Falcons town.

The main horizontal stripe around the middle of the RV is now Falcons red with black borders.

The hood on the front of the RV even has Falcons handles and a bottle opener, in case you forgot yours!

The side of the RV has a large Falcons logo facing the passenger side and tailgate space.

The awning has been replaced with a special Falcons logo awning.

The tires even have Falcons stem caps.

The Inside of the Falcons RV

Now, Matt and his buddies didn’t stop with just making the outside a Falcons showcase. No, they went all out on the inside too.

I think they just went and bought everything possible from the Fanatics and Amazon stores.

Every cabinet door knob has a Falcons logo. And every door has a pennant on it.

Falcons seat covers and pillows. And chairs.

They even went so far as to add red rope lighting around mirrors and cabinets. Because you know, there just weren’t enough Falcons gear inside already.

Did I mention that they also have a TV in the bathroom? Because you don’t want to miss any of the game!

Falcons Tailgate Trailer

Now that’s an impressive RV, definitely leaving you no doubt that these guys are Atlanta Falcons fans through and through.

But we aren’t done with the Falcons gear! We’ve got a tailgate to run!

And what better way to run it than with a Falcons tailgate trailer!

If they painted their RV in Falcons colors, you’d expect the same for their trailer, right? But of course!

It’s red with giant Falcons logos on it as well.

On the tailgate side, it opens up with a big screen TV and two smaller TVs, perfect for watching the Falcons and also keeping up with all the other action going on in the NFL.

Oh yeah, and the two TVs on the side of the RV.

That’s five TVs all within your tailgate to not miss the game.

They also have two liquor dispensers with bottles of Jack Daniels and Fireball whiskey. And at the other end, they have the kegerator with cold beer on tap.

Now, the trailer isn’t just for the TVs and kegerator. It’s also useful to transport all the tailgate stuff.

See, the Vectra has pretty limited basement storage space. As one would expect from a mid-1990s Class A gas motorhome (seriously, my 1990 Winnebago had almost no basement storage space).

The trailer carries two pop-up tents, both of which have been, of course, customized for their Dirty Birds Nest tailgate. It also carries several high top tables and bar stools – with Falcons logos, of course.

About the only thing they don’t have is Infinity Beer Pong, customized for the Dirty Birds Nest tailgate.

Powering The Falcons Tailgate

As one would imagine, all of this takes a lot of power. The Dirty Birds Nest is run by two external generators.

They have a Champion 2800 Watts Inverter generator that runs the RV.

And a Honda EU3000i portable generator that runs the trailer and everything on it.

Now, it’s not often that you find people that have used both the Champion and the Honda generators for extended periods of time. But Matt and his crew have.

Matt says that without a doubt, the Honda generator is the better and quieter generator.

I ran some tests during the tailgate. They had very similar dB readings but the Honda was slightly quieter. But the Honda was running a lot more tailgating stuff than the Champion was at the time.

See, it was a pretty cool day so no air conditioner or heater was needed for the RV. It was just running some TVs, lights, and the occasional water pump for toilet use.

Unlike the trailer which had TVs, stereo and surround sound, lights, kegerator, freezer, and a lot more.

Matt was quite strong in his opinion that the Honda was the superior generator.

With two generators running, you are also going to go through some gas. The Dirty Birds Nest Tailgate has a DuraMax Flo n’ Go Gas Can.

It’s like a small gas pump on the go. And so much easier than dealing with traditional gas cans for refilling the generators on the fly.

Much smaller chance that you are going to spill gasoline all over the parking lot since you just use a small pump handle and don’t have to pick up the large gas can.

Popup Tent Weights

Tailgates are subject to all sorts of weather conditions. This happened to be a nice fall day, but early on, it was quite windy.

Pop-up tents should always have weights on them to keep the tents from flying away in the wind.

Now, you can go with the traditional sand or water weights or you can make your own!

This is easy enough with two gallon sized paint buckets, some long machine screws, and some wing nuts.

The screws and wing-nuts are great to help secure the bottom of the pop-up tents. With the three inch (or more) height, the tents aren’t likely to fly off. The wing-nut makes it even less likely.

The buckets also give the tents a little bit of extra height so people are less likely to bump their heads.

See Also: The Best RV Tailgating Pop-up Tent

RV Tailgating at Mercedes Benz Stadium

If you are going to be RV tailgating at Mercedes Benz Stadium, for any event – NFL Football, college football, high school football, concerts, or truly any event, then you’ll be at the Marshalling Yard off Ivan Allen Boulevard.

The Marshalling Yard is a pretty large lot. And because it is open all the time and not run by the NFL, it doesn’t have the same 2 hour tailgating rule that many RV lots have around the NFL. That means you can stay for more than 2 hours after the game.

Including say, overnight, which could come in real handy for any of the night games.

The Marshalling Yard is about a 10-15 minute walk on game days to your gate.

Atlanta Falcons Fan RV Tailgate

With all the TVs, endless supply of beer, and no bathroom lines, why would you even want to leave the tailgate to go to the game?

Follow Matt and the Dirty Birds Nest tailgating on Twitter.

Like this Atlanta Falcons RV Tailgate? Pin for later!

You might also like:
Inside the College Football Hall of Fame in Atlanta, GA
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The post Inside the Atlanta Falcons’ Dirty Birds Nest RV Tailgate appeared first on RV Tailgate Life.

On game day, you’ll want to look cute but not spend your time sorting through jewelry. Make it easier by keeping jewelry on display, ready with quick access.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links for various products below. You get the same low prices and we earn a small commission to help us buy more RV tailgating gadgets. Or game tickets if you go on a shopping spree. Please go on a shopping spree!

In the past, I’ve used various jewelry travel organizers like the jewelry roll bag or even hanging jewelry organizers.

This has let me take jewelry back and forth from the RV to the house. But the roll bags left necklaces in a tangled mess and the earrings hard to find. The larger jewelry organizers were too big, looked cheap, or just didn’t work in the RV.

Back at home, I have a large frame with wire that the earrings all hang from. And a shelf with a nice necklace holder. This keeps everything easy to see and relatively tangle free. I’ve wanted something similar for the RV.

The problem with countertop necklace or jewelry holders is that they take up valuable counter space and they are likely to go flying while driving down the roads that leave much to be desired (I see you Atlanta and your metal pothole covers). I’m finally getting close to the minimalist RV with clean countertops that I don’t have to pack/unpack before every trip.

I’ve been on the hunt, so to speak, for the perfect jewelry organizer for the RV. Something simple, that hangs on the wall that I don’t have to put up or take down every single time I take a trip.

What You’ll Need

6 inch square Cork Tiles
6 inch square Wood Photo Frames
Command Bath Water Resistant Refill Strips
Thumbtacks
Command Large Caddy, Clear (Optional)

The Inspiration

I’ve been working on cleaning and organizing the new RV, pretty much non-stop since I got it. I’ve been real hesitant to put things up on the wall so far, wanting to see how I would actually live in the RV. So now that I have a few short and long trips under my belt, I’ve started to get a much better feel of where things need to be and how to organize everything.

I recently spent several days organizing the RV – kitchen, living space, basements, bathroom, bedroom – you name it, I’ve been through it.

Of course, I have a bin of let’s just call it the RV Junk Drawer. It’s random stuff that I’ve bought and used over the years in both Starter RV and my new Tiffin. Lots of battery-operated LED lights are in here. Flashlights, Command Strips, just miscellaneous “stuff.”

Including 2 square cork tiles.

As I’m going through this junk bin, I find these tiles. And I look at them and look at them again. And somehow, in my brain I connect the cork tiles with the jewelry organizer I have in my house. Not sure how it happened, but it did.

Added benefit of using cork tiles – they also help dampen or absorb sound. I hate hearing things cling and clatter while I am driving. So hopefully this feature will help with avoiding unnecessary rattles from the jewelry.

See Also: Upgrade Your RV Shower with Oxygenics

On the Hunt For The Perfect Spot

I ended up finding the perfect spot for hanging the cork tiles on the back side of the wall from the bathroom. This wall is taller than the available space on the bathroom wall (thanks to those over the sink cabinets), which makes it great for hanging long necklaces.

Also, by being in the bedroom, I avoid pesky things like the sink and toilet drains. Because who wants to lose an earring down a drain?

As I’m hunting down this space, one thing I quickly realized was that I didn’t like the unfinished look of just the cork tiles. So I hit up my trusty friends at Amazon, looking for small square frames. Little did I know that they had a whole selection of square frames meant for printing and framing Instagram photos.

So Amazon Prime to the rescue! Overnight delivery and I could finish up this project the very next day!

Pulling It All Together

Once the frames arrived, it was a simple process of popping out the stock art and the glass and putting the cork tiles in.

Then it was time to put it on the wall. With every RVers favorite tool – Command Strips!

Now, because I’m in the South and not a full-timer, the inside of my RV is subject to some pretty high temperatures. And humidity. So I always go with either bathroom or outdoor command strips, which seem to hold up better than the regular Command Strips.

Also key is proper surface prep. Always wipe down the wall with rubbing alcohol and then let it dry. I usually take the extra step of also wiping down the picture frame before I add the strips.

I added one large strip to the top of the frame and a second medium strip to the bottom of the frame. It’s overkill as for the weight of the whole contraption but 1) better safe than sorry and 2) I don’t want the frames banging on the wall as I bounce through the rough roads of this country. On larger frames, I’ll hit each corner but these are small enough that I just went with the two strips in the middle of the frame.

See More on Using Command Strips in the RV

Adding Jewelry

I had some silver thumbtacks in my RV Junk Drawer, so I just used those. However, I really wish I had these gold pattern designer thumbtacks that would go so well with the interior of the RV. I left a little room for the earrings behind them and then hung the earrings.

I also realized that there is a gap between the wall and the cabinet (there are two large drawers below the counter space). I could just see jewelry falling down that crack and being difficult to find or retrieve.

So I added the large clear Command caddy below. In addition to catching any jewelry that might fall, I can leave rings, watches, or bracelets here.

A RV DIY Jewelry Organizer

Now, I don’t wear a lot of fancy or expensive jewelry, but I do love some cute earrings.

And now I can leave a few pairs of earrings and necklaces so that it is one less thing to worry about while trying to get down to the tailgate this fall.

Also, because of where I put this, I can access it even with the slides in. So if I forget to take some jewelry out when I get back from the tailgate, it is easy to jump in and get it. I’ll know right where I left everything. And never worry about tangled necklaces again.

All for $10.99 (the square frames, since I had the
cork tiles, the Command strips and caddy, and thumbtacks all in my RV Junk Drawer).

I wonder what project will come out of the RV Junk Drawer next…

The post DIY Jewelry Organizer and Display For Your RV appeared first on RV Tailgate Life.

It seems like such a basic upgrade, but how many times have you complained about the water pressure in your RV shower?

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links for various products below. You get the same low prices and we earn a small commission to help us buy more RV tailgating gadgets. Or game tickets if you go on a shopping spree. Please go on a shopping spree!

As tailgaters, we are usually boondocking. That means no water hookups.

All the water pressure is coming from the water pump. And while the Shurflo water pumps do a pretty good job, showers can still be difficult.

And when you have hair as thick and as long as I do, shower pressure is really important to getting shampoo and conditioner rinsed out well.

Oxygenics RV Shower Heads

Oxygenics shower heads are designed for maximum efficiency. This means fewer gallons but more water pressure. They do this by mixing air in with the water to produce a stronger stream coming out of the shower head. (This is probably where the “Oxygen” part of their name comes from)

Meanwhile, their shower heads also come with a control valve that you can use to reduce the flow of water to a small trickle. This is a vital feature for long tailgating and boondocking trips to save water in your shower.

But it is more than just efficiency that makes the Oxygenics showers so great. Oxygenics RV shower heads are made with non-stick parts that prevent mineral buildup and clogging. They work even in hard water conditions, so for those that travel all over the place – no more worrying about clogging shower heads because of hard water.

The Oxygenics shower heads all come with long hoses. This makes it easy to clean the shower or even the dog.

Comparing Oxygenics RV Shower Models

Oxygenics makes three different RV shower heads – the Body Spa, the Body Spa Adventure, and the Fury.

The basic model is the Body Spa; it has only one spray setting. The Body Spa model has a five foot long hose.

Buy the Body Spa:
Amazon: Brushed Nickel | White | Chrome
Camping World: Brushed Nickel | White | Chrome

The Body Spa Adventure is a new upgrade to their basic Body Spa. This has an additional spray selection as well as another foot of hose.

Buy the Body Spa Adventure:
Camping World: Brushed Nickel | White | Chrome

Meanwhile, the Fury is the ultimate in Oxygenics RV showers. It has 5 spray settings, non-slip rubber handle, and the extra foot of hose found on the Adventure. Of course, this makes it more expensive than the other models.

Buy the Fury:
Amazon: Brushed Nickel | White | Chrome
Camping World: Brushed Nickel | White | Chrome

I decided the Fury was the right option for my new Tiffin 34PA.

Installing the Oxygenics RV Shower Head

This is so simple, I kind of want to kick myself for not doing it earlier.

Seriously, all I had to do was unscrew the old shower hose and screw the new one in. And then connect the other end of the hose to the shower head.

Depending on your old shower head and how it was installed, you may need to remove some plumber’s tape and put some new plumber’s tape on the threads where the hose connects. This is a very easy task and Oxygenics even sent a little packet of plumber’s tape with the shower head.

Tip: If you don’t use the plumber’s tape during install, leave it in your toolbox. At some point, you’ll probably need to fix a leaky shower head or sink faucet. It little, it’s light, and you’ll be happy to have it when you need it.

I even used the existing mount (I like how I can move it up and down, to vary the height instead of a set mount). I was lucky in that the new shower head fit the old mount.

However, the Oxygenics Fury does come with a new mount that you can use if you need it.

Loving the Oxygenics Fury

The new Oxygenics Fury RV Shower Head makes such a big difference in the power of the water coming out of the shower.

Now, it won’t matter where I am, campground, tailgating, or boondocking, I’ll be able to get the soap out of my hair!

Like this post? Pin it for later!

The post Upgrade Your RV Shower with a Oxygenics RV Shower Head appeared first on RV Tailgate Life.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links for various products below. You get the same low prices and we earn a small commission to help us buy more RV tailgating gadgets. Or game tickets if you go on a shopping spree.

I’m not a big coffee drinker. In fact, I don’t drink coffee at all. But some of my tailgating friends do. And for many of you who drink coffee, you just aren’t pleasant to be around until you’ve had your morning cup of Joe. So I wouldn’t want to deprive you of your coffee when you are staying in my RV.

Like many that have only an occasional cup of coffee, the Keurig coffee systems have been pretty nifty. And in addition to coffee, they have lots of juice mixes, hot chocolate, and cider options. Great to use as mixers for your adult beverages or to keep warm during cold tailgates. So even this non-coffee drinker finds a Keurig machine handy.

Of course, the problem with most Keurig machines is that they are way too large for a small RV like the Starter RV. I mean, look at this kitchen counter space – there’s just no space to keep a large Keurig machine.

The Bella Single Serve Coffee Makers were the smallest K-cup machines I could find for my RV.

Much better than a large coffee pot. I still have to store it away for driving purposes but that sink there sure is handy for such things.

This Bella machine is small because it does not have a large water reservoir like many brewers do. Instead of storing a lot of water, you just poor in exactly what you need, when you need it.

The small water reservoir is also great for part-time RVers that don’t drink coffee every single day. The Keurig could easily become something that you forget to empty out before a few weeks off. If you had a large water reservoir, you might get a fun science experiment with mold and fungus stuff. We typically have enough of that going on in RVs, don’t add another experiment station!

See Also: 10 RV Gadgets You’ll Wish You Had At Your Next Tailgate

K-Cup Storage in the RV Kitchen

Now though, the next issue is the K cups! The problem is storing these pesky little creatures.

Last season, the K-cup pods just ended up stored in a plastic bag in the cabinet. But that’s messy and really not the most efficient use of space.

I looked for one of those under the cabinet options, but as you can see from the picture – the shelf is too wide with that finishing piece on the front. The under the shelf options didn’t really seem to work in the RV.

I looked into building my own K-cup storage. But you need the two inch PVC pipe for that and well, those options all looked to take up even more room in the limited space I had to work with. I figured that I would end up leaving the K-cups in the plastic grocery bag in the cabinets.

But then I stumbled across these Coffee Pod Pads. They stick onto the bottoms of cabinets or the inside of the door. They come three to a pack.

When the Coffee Pod Pads came in, I was concerned that they wouldn’t hold the K-Cups as we rumbled across the roads. As anyone that has driven in or around Atlanta knows, the roads around here aren’t the best. Add trips up and down the Atlantic Coast, including more than a few field and boondocking destinations, and you know that anything hanging upside down has to be tight to stay in there.

See Also: RV Closet Organization Hacks

But the Coffee Pod Pads hold the K cups in there pretty tight. I filled one up with K-cups and banged it around, hitting the cabinet and what not. They held tight. So I think they will hold up well to normal driving and you won’t end up with K-cups all over the kitchen area of your RV.

The best thing is that the K-cups are also easily accessible, without emptying out half the cabinets. For those that just don’t function before your AM shot of caffeine, that’s probably a pretty good thing.

Update: When I traded up from Starter RV, the pod pads were still holding strong on the bottom of the cabinet. I never had a K-cup fall out either. I definitely recommend these Coffee Pod Pads to help organize your RV kitchen!

K-Cup Storage Inside The RV Cabinets

With the upgrade from Starter RV to the new Tiffin RV, I had to find a new place for the K-Cup pod pads.

After some thinking about it and testing things out, I determined that the best place to put the pod pads was inside the kitchen cabinet directly over the sink. There is just enough room between the door and the cabinet shelf to fit the K-Cup Pods and Pod pads.

Since the pods are now hidden inside the kitchen cabinet door, it is maintaining my clean, minimalist look in the new RV. And leaving room for other items below the cabinets.

Another happy installation of Coffee Pod Pads.

See Also: More RV Kitchen Organization Tips

Have You Found Better RV K-Cup Storage Options?

What have you done to help with RV K-Cup storage? Let me know what other solutions you have found by commenting below!

Products Recommended Above:

Coffee Pod Pads
Bella Single Serve Coffee Makers

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The post Get Your Morning Coffee On: RV K-Cup Storage appeared first on RV Tailgate Life.

But with the road game this weekend, I took the opportunity to do some upgrades. These are relatively minor but hopefully big impact items for my enjoyment of the RV.

The first one up: the RV windshield curtains.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links for various products below. You get the same low prices and we earn a small commission to help us buy more RV tailgating gadgets. Or game tickets if you go on a shopping spree.

My current RV front windshield curtains are thin. Stained. Ugly.

I need something that is better at keeping light out. Better privacy. And looks better.

Thoughts on RV Upgrades

I have a few “rules” about my upgrades:

1. Inexpensive, DIY RV Upgrades – This is my “Starter” RV and I fully expect to upgrade in the next 1-2 years.

   I’ve already started looking at “RV Porn” as one fellow tailgating family calls it. You know, those nights you spend looking at all the new and used RVs on the market, going that could be in my budget and features I like. Oooh, that one is really nice but way more than I need. Etc.

   So when I am doing work, particularly upgrades and modifications, I’m looking for things I can do myself and relatively inexpensive. I am not looking to sink a lot of money into this RV knowing that I’ll likely be getting a new one soon.

2. Weekend or Less Project – I have a full-time job, an in-season team to follow and tailgate for, and friends and family to do other things with. In other words, my time, like that of everyone I know, is limited.

   I want to get in and get it done.

3. High Impact Update – what work will have a high impact on my enjoyment of the RV?

   Will this make it better living, like the TV upgrade?

   Will it make it better tailgating?

   Or maybe a better driving experience?

   Is this something I can take with me to the new RV and make life there great as well?

The rules will change in the future, when I get the new RV. But for now, these rules definitely work when I’m thinking about any RV upgrades or RV modifications.

See Also: RV Tailgating for Beginners: Dry Camping Basics

Know Thy Measurements!

With the Rules in mind, I stumbled across a project this weekend.

I had time to kill on Friday afternoon before meeting some friends for dinner. So, I spent some time wandering every RVers favorite all-purpose store, Wal-Mart. And ended up in their housewares department, in particular the curtains.

I’ve wanted to do a project on the curtains in the RV, but the sizes have always been off from the standard sizes they sell.

And while a friend has offered to help sew (not a talent in my wheelhouse), we haven’t been able to spend some actual time on this project.

For whatever reason, I decided that I could try out the pre-made blackout curtains for my front RV windshield.

At first, I tried the Eclipse Samara Blackout Drapes that were 54 inches long. I was thinking four panels should do it.

But once I got them back to the RV on Saturday, I knew pretty quick that 54 inches would be way too long. (that’s not what she said! )

But if I turned them sideways… wait, that’s not too bad. And if I went with the 84 inch panels, I’d only need one per side!

So back to Wal-Mart to return the 54 inch panels and get 84 inch panels.

Of course, the first Wal-Mart didn’t have them in my desired color, so off to another nearby Wal-Mart which had them at less than $10 per panel.

Yes, that’s three trips to Wal-Mart in one weekend!

I really should have put all those measurements I took earlier in my phone so I’d have them on my random Wal-Mart trips. It would have saved two trips and a bunch of hassle!

Installing the new RV Windshield Curtains

The old curtains were held up by the heavy drape hooks – similar to these sharp, pointy things from Amazon (that’s a technical term, right?).

The good news is that I didn’t have to worry about rod pockets or grommets getting in the way. With the rod pocket curtains, it is a nice, clean look. But also no sewing (which is still not a talent of mine).

So it was just a matter of undoing the hooks from the old drapes and putting them in the new ones. Really, no big deal.

Of course, I did all of this with the drapes straight out of the packing, so ignore the wrinkles in the pictures.

Hopefully, the wrinkles will fall out soon. Or maybe I’ll take them down and iron throw them in the dryer to get the wrinkles out.

Or I’ll just live with the wrinkles until they eventually go away on their own.

Update: When I traded in Starter RV for the new Tiffin RV (still not named), the wrinkles were still there in the RV windshield curtains. Not quite as bad and probably only noticeable to me.

But alas, I’m human and it wasn’t a very big priority for me to get the wrinkles out. There’s tailgating to be had and no time to iron!

Apply the Rules

So, how did this upgrade work with my rules: It was definitely inexpensive and DIY.

Each panel was $9.87 (plus tax) each. So for $20 and change, with tax, I had new drapes.

No other costs as I used the pee-existing hooks.

And it took about 10 minutes to hang the new ones up, including taking pictures for all of you. You can add a few more minutes to iron the wrinkles out, if that matters to you.

I’ve probably spent more time writing about it than I did actually doing it.

And for high impact: well, I went from thin, stained RV windshield curtains that were OK for privacy but horrible for actually blocking light out.

Now, you can tell a noticeable difference inside just from the light at my house.

It also looks better, with the unstained white on the outside when it is parked or in-use.

Even on the inside, with the gray color that goes with the slowly changing interior color scheme (out with the 80s blues, beiges, and creams; in with gray, white, black, and yellow).

I’m also hoping that the blackout drapes provide the promised features of less heating/cooling costs and noise reduction as well. I’m not sure how well I can test the heating/cooling since it is now officially fall. Or the noise reduction since I only did the windshield and not the other RV windows.

But hey, I had to start somewhere, right?

See Also: DIY RV Jewelry Organizer

More RV Window Curtains?

Now, I’m wondering if I can do something similar for the other RV windows.

I’ve got two large living area windows, two large bedroom windows, plus the small kitchen, door, and extra living area windows.

The two larger bedroom windows have some temporary “solutions” with some blackout drapes thumb-tacked up. (Why I didn’t think to use these on the other windows is beyond me)

But I still haven’t figured out how to get them usable in the living area.

I like driving with these blinds up for better visibility purposes, so I need to be able to open/close the drapes as well.

Maybe my friend can sew long rod pockets down the side for the other windows and maybe a hemline if we split them down the middle.

I could easily add a rod under the cabinets/where the blinds are attached. (Remember, I do not sew, not even a hemline!)

Or I’ll just keep using the blinds.

See Also: DIY Oxygenics RV Shower Head Upgrade

Have You Upgraded Your RV Windshield Curtains?

Join the conversation below!

Let us know how you have dealt with covering odd sized RV windows!

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Products Used in this RV Upgrade:
84 inch Blackout Curtain Panels
Drapery Hooks

The post No Sew! Upgrading RV Windshield Curtains appeared first on RV Tailgate Life.

On manual awnings like Starter RV, you deploy the awning by pulling on a strap connected to the roller wheel.

Like the rest of the awning, these straps spend most of their time rolled up inside the awning and subjected to the same elements as the awning itself. You know, the rain, snow, mildew and sun. Which means that the awning strap is likely to breakdown over time.

So you go to pull out the awning and poof! the strap breaks.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links for various products below. You get the same low prices and we earn a small commission to help us buy more RV tailgating gadgets. Or game tickets if you go on a shopping spree.

The Starter RV awning strap broke at the loop on the end, where you connect the awning pull rod.

It is (was) a 1990 RV after all, so we weren’t surprised when something exposed to the elements turned to dust.

We (being me and my engineering RV tailgating dad) rigged up a temporary solution by adding some rope to the end so that we could pull the awning out.

But if I knew then how easy it was to actually replace the entire awning strap, there would have been no temporary solution.

See Also: Upgrading Your RV Shower Head, another easy RV upgrade

Really Easy to Replace the Awning Strap

Amazon has RV awning pull straps available.

Once you have the replacement in hand, it is not hard to install.

Pull your awning out, but do not raise it (or only raise the awning so that the roller bar is at eye level).

Then determine which side the awning slide is open.

On Starter RV, when I was standing under the awning and facing away from the RV, it was to the right.

Then slide the old strap down and off the rail. Depending on how long the rubber piece is, you may have to use some force to bend it a little (hint: only do this on the easily replaced and cheap strap and not the awning support. If you are going to break something, make sure it is the $5.00 strap and not the expensive awning support.)

Then slide the new awning pull strap in.

If you want, you can even slide in a few awning hooks for flying flags, lights, or other objects from the awning.

Now, I’ve got a fully functioning RV awning strap that is long enough that it won’t roll up into the awning, providing a hassle when trying to deploy the awning.

Sometimes it is the small things that improve RV life. Don’t put off fixing the small annoying things when there is an easy fix.

What easy RV fixes have you put off and wish that you didn’t?

We’ve all been there – putting off fixing something in the RV because we figured that it was going to be difficult.

But then we finally got around to fixing whatever it was and it was like “Why didn’t I do this earlier?”

What easy RV fix did you put off and regret not doing it earlier? Comment below with your stories!

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Products from this RV Mod:
RV Awning Pull Strap

The post Replacing the Awning Strap on Starter RV appeared first on RV Tailgate Life.

Now, I’ve seen some horror stories and other RV tailgaters have told me some more stories about pulling out their old RV TVs and installing a new flat screen TV. So I went into this RV mod with a little trepidation.

After installing the new TV, I shouldn’t have waited so long! Maybe I was lucky, but this did not end up being as bad as I have been told.

In other words, this thing had to go!

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links for various products below. You get the same low prices and we earn a small commission to help us buy more RV tailgating gadgets. Or game tickets if you go on a shopping spree.

Removing The Old RV TV Would Be A Win No Matter What

Even if the upgrade hadn’t worked out, at least I would have dumped the old TV.

No reason to haul it around, right? It was just dead weight to me.

The TV was an old, probably original to the (1990) RV. It wouldn’t work with a digital antenna and was pretty much just taking up space.

It was bulky and useless. Not even good for a doorstop since it was up in the cabinet over the driver compartment.

Before You Start: Buy the Digital Flat Screen TV

First, I had to research TVs. There’s not a lot out there in the small TV space that is suitable for an RV.

My biggest constraint was size: I was limited to a physical space of 21 inches by 15 inches.

That included the screen, any speakers, and any extra side space.

Even though this is a small RV, with no slides and thus limited areas to watch the TV, I did want to maximize the viewing area.

Eventually, I went with the SuperSonic 1080p 22 inch digital flat screen TV from Amazon.

I did not intend to use the DC compatibility since it is a cigarette lighter (and that would plug into my engine battery, not house batteries).

But otherwise the SuperSonic TV fit my space criteria and had a bonus DVD player. This TV comes in at just under 7 pounds, so weight-conscious RVers should love it.

Whatever you do, don’t get a plasma TV for an RV. They will not do well with the shakes, rattles and rolls common in an RV. That leaves you with the LCD/LED TVs.

Before You Start: Buy the Wall Mount

The next step was to determine how to mount the TV to the RV.

As many RVers know, mounting is one of the toughest things we deal with – the walls are thin and anything heavy is likely to bring them down.

Using screws on the thin walls is generally frowned upon because of the wiring; who knows what you will hit.

Fortunately, since I was taking the old tube TV out, I could mount the new digital flatscreen TV inside the cabinet.

The cabinets are generally stronger and sturdier than the walls.

I went with the Travel TV Wall Mount.

Things to look for in a TV mount for your RV:

• What is the viewing angle? Make sure you get one that you can tilt.
• Look for one that has an extendable arm that can rotate. I ended up mounting it on the side since that is where the sturdiest walls were. If you are limited to the back, you may have to get creative with some carpentry work.

Now, for the fun….

See Also: Handy RV Tailgating Resources

Testing Out the New Digital Flat Screen TV Setup

I personally did things out of order from what I’m recommending here to you.

I probably should have done this before I started everything else, but then again, it would not have mattered if things did not work. The old TV had to go, even if I was left with an empty cabinet. At least I’d be hauling around that much less weight in the RV, right?

But before you begin ripping out the old TV to install a new TV, you should test the new TV first.

Three Things to Test before Installation in Your RV

1. Does the new digital flat screen TV work? No reason to put everything up there just to turn it on and it not work. Make sure that the remote works with the TV as well. Test all this out before you go any further.

2. Can you get antenna reception through the TV? The SuperSonic digital flatscreen TV could not pick up any over-the-air channels without connecting to an external digital antenna, even in suburbia Atlanta.

Fortunately, I had one of these on hand, but if you don’t, add it to your shopping list.

3. Does the TV mount fit your TV? You’d be surprised how many TVs don’t line up with a standard VESA mounting pattern.

Just test it before you go any further. I went ahead and attached the wall mount arm to the TV at this stage. This is also a good time to string the security strap between the digital flat screen TV and the mount. More on that later.

Don’t want to install a TV? Keep your RV TV portable and protected with the MyTCase

Removing the Old Tube TV

No better time to work on the RV than a Saturday afternoon in Georgia when it is hovering around 95 degrees, right?

First things first, cool off the RV so you don’t die of heat stroke! It was only 106 degrees when I first stepped into the RV.

Good time to pull the RV out of storage, run the engines and generators and make sure everything is running well.

And to check out the awnings since shade is good. And if you are like me, you probably need to air them out anyways after storage. OK, enough of that and back to the TV.

See Also: Tips to Stay Cool at the Tailgate

The old tube TV was held in place in two ways – well, kind of.

In the picture above, you can see the safety security strap hanging down, so it wasn’t doing much to hold it up.

Thus, the only thing really holding it in was the framing around the TV, secured by two rusty screws. Yikes!

But those were easy enough to remove and then the TV slid right out. The toughest part of getting the TV out was tracing the power cord behind the cabinet to the one beside it.

Bye bye old tube TV! Hopefully the trash guys will pick it up this week!

One thing I was a little surprised about was the metal floor and straps providing extra support for the old tube TV.

The security straps were also screwed into this metal plate, which comes in handy later on for securing the digital flat screen TV during transit (the last thing I want is for the TV to come down and end up on my head while I am driving).

Installing the Digital Flat Screen TV in Your RV

First things first, we need to install the TV mount.

You’ll follow the instructions for installing your TV mount.

Installing the Travel TV Mount was easy, with a built in leveler (make sure your RV is level if you rely on it).

Since this mount has two “docking” stations and you attach the arm to it after installation, remember that you’ll need more clearance room for the arm to fit over the docking station.

I had plenty of room in the cabinet, but did not consider that the slope of the ceiling outside the cabinet could be a problem. It worked out, but I do recommend installing it at the bottom of the cabinet to be sure you have the proper clearance to get the TV into position.

After the docking station was in, it was just a matter of slipping the arm and digital flat screen TV into place.

Once in place, I ran the AC power cable back behind the cabinet into the power area next to it.

Then, I attached the old coax cable that was already in place to connect with the digital antenna, which I placed in the power area. This way, I can either (1) easily upgrade the antenna later, if needed, (2) move the antenna to a better location for reception purposes, and/or (3) add DISH satellite TV.

If I stuck it behind the TV, it would be difficult to move or upgrade.

More Tips for Installing Your New TV in Your RV

While the Travel TV Mount comes with a security strap, I used the ones that were in place, previously for the old tube TV. While they were a little dusty and grimy, they were in good shape and didn’t require additional installation work.

After getting the TV installed and working on securing it, I realized that the best way would be to string the strap between the TV and the VESA mount. This took some work because the space was tight – I ended up removing the arm mount from the TV to get it through. But I am more confident now that the TV will not end up on my head while going down the road, even if the wall mount fails.

By accident, I found out that the back of the TV actually fit nicely into the cutout as long as I didn’t put the framing back up. This also will help take the weight and force off the wall mount, making it less likely to fail.

When you install the TV, make sure to tilt it for the best viewing angle from your sofa or other likely viewing locations. You typically won’t be watching the TV by standing directly in front of the TV. Instead, sit on the couch and set the viewing angle that way.

Things Still To Do

There will be a trip to Wal-Mart tomorrow to see about getting an adapter for the audio.

Remember, this is a 1990 model RV. The technology has changed a bit since then, including TV connections.

The old TV had only one audio out to the RV audio system, so I’ve got to look for some adapters.

Also, I need to get one of those smart power strips so that I don’t run down the house batteries when I’m not using the TV. This wasn’t an issue with the old TV since I just had it unplugged.

But now, I don’t want to be standing on my head to plugin/unplug the TV every trip. As tailgaters, we don’t stay in place long enough to not worry about it.

See Also: Organize Your K-Cups in Your RV Kitchen

Update: 2018

As you probably know, in November 2017, I traded in Starter RV for a new Tiffin!

When I traded in the old RV, I left the new TV inside. At that time, the mount was still going strong and no problems with the TV!

Hopefully, whoever became the new owner of Starter RV enjoys the TV (assuming the dealership didn’t just salvage the parts and killed off the whole thing).

Have you upgraded the TV in your RV?

This was an easy DIY RV upgrade for me, but I’ve definitely heard horror stories from others where it was a lot more difficult.

How did the upgrade go for you?

Products Used In The RV TV Upgrade:
SuperSonic Digital Flat Screen TV
The Travel TV Mount

Like this RV mod? Pin for later!

The post How to Upgrade to Digital Flat Screen TV in the RV appeared first on RV Tailgate Life.

This spring, I finally put a stop to this nuisance! I wanted something in the RV where the cups could be left out but in a neat and organized fashion. My solution is this nifty Solo Cup holder.

It makes it so much easier to store Solo Cups in my RV kitchen!

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links for various products below. You get the same low prices and we earn a small commission to help us buy more RV tailgating gadgets. Or game tickets if you go on a shopping spree.

Camco makes these useful Pop-A-Napkin and Pop-A-Plate dispensers.

I wanted something similar for Solo cups in Starter RV. No such luck! My guess is that there are too many different cup sizes to make the dispensers affordably.

So my search began for an alternative. I spent several long nights surfing the internet and had no luck finding a suitable option for an inexpensive cup dispenser. I was finding options for $100+ restaurant dispensers that were too long for the small interior in my RV.

Even Pinterest wasn’t proving much help. I spent quite a bit of time this winter searching all sections of home improvement stores for ideas. Thus, it was time to turn to the mother of invention – necessity! And thinking outside the box.

Toilet Paper Holder Becomes Solo Cups Holder

After several false starts*, I finally stumbled upon a toilet paper holder at Marshall’s, similar to this one available on Amazon.

* False starts included a paper towel holder and toilet paper holder that each had a middle bar. These don’t work as well as the cylindrical holders – the number of Solo cups is limited by the height of the bar.

The key to a good RV Solo Cup holder is that there is no middle bar to keep the toilet paper rolls in place.

Starter RV has limited kitchen wall space, so I got creative and put the holder horizontal instead of the intended vertical placement.

I removed the suction cups and used screws in the kitchen cabinets for a more permanent solution. I placed this right below the main kitchen storage cabinet, on the overhang from the microwave cabinet.

Once the holder was in place and the cups inside, I realized a problem in keeping the cups in the holder.

These GearTies – reusable rubber twist ties – became the solution to keeping the Solo cups in place. In the picture, you’ll see I used a longer blue tie at the opening.

The V placement allows tailgaters to quickly grab a Solo cup when needed, while keeping them secure during travel. Since they are rubber twist ties, they will hold up to repeated use and the extreme temperatures of my RV.

See Also: Organize K-Cups in Your RV Kitchen

Solo Cup Holder During RV Tailgates

I’ve tailgated one time since installing the Solo cups holder – the spring football game.

It was wonderful not having to go into cabinets each time someone needed a cup, only to have the whole bag fall in my sink.

The holder kept the cups organized while opening up additional space in the cabinets over the sink.

What creative solutions have you found to keep things organized and accessible in your RV during tailgates?

I’m always looking for awesome and creative solutions to pesky organization issues in my RV.

What have you done to store Solo Cups in your RV?

Products Used In This Tip:
Toilet Paper Holder
GearTies – Reusable Rubber Twist Ties

Like this easy RV mod? Pin for Later!

The post Solo Cups Holder for the RV Kitchen appeared first on RV Tailgate Life.