I have often described my Class A motorhome as part-home, part-vehicle. And who doesn’t love sending your home through an earthquake every couple of days as you move from tailgate to tailgate?

But today, let’s talk about the boring part of RVing, making sure your RV is properly insured. And how you can shop for insurance with specialized RV Insurance agents!

Disclosure: The information provided herein is for informational purposes only. Please consult with an insurance agent or other appropriate advisor before relying on this information, as it is subject to change at any time.

RV Insurance Explained

Back when I had Starter RV, I didn’t care so much about the insurance. I mean, I bought the RV for $4,000 in cash from a friend of mine. It was already 24 years old and barely hanging on! But it was my chance to try out the whole RV life on the cheap.

So I just got the basic vehicle coverage – state mandated minimums for a vehicle to travel on its roads. I wasn’t concerned about the RV itself – if it burned down or got stuck on the side of road, just haul it off and I’d be fine, no harm, no foul.

But then I upgraded to my Class A gas motorhome made by Tiffin. This was a little more expensive than Starter RV. It definitely was not $4,000… I paid more than that for the downpayment and took out a hefty loan afterwards!

Now, it was time to really start looking at insurance options. Because if something happened to this baby, I didn’t want to be left paying off a loan when I didn’t even have the fun part of the RV!

And in the meantime, I definitely don’t want to have my license revoked or for the state to come after me with fines or potential jail time for not having the right RV insurance! That’s where the professionals at Charlotte Insurance come into play!

Let’s Talk RV Insurance Basics

What is it that you are looking for in an RV insurance policy?

Typically, you want to cover the auto part as well as the home part of your RV.

State Minimum Insurance

First, you want to meet all your state minimum insurance requirements if you have a motorized RV – so your Class A, Class C, sprinter vans, etc. That’s just the basic liability insurance that you’ll need. That’s the insurance the protects the other people out there from your bad driving (or at least from accidents that you may cause).

Nerd Wallet has a good summary of state minimum coverages for all states.

Once you get into RVing, it’s likely that you’ll have additional assets that you want to protect. It’s probably advisable that you get more than the state minimum coverage for the liability insurance. After all, people will see that motorhome and think “Payday!” if you are in a wreck with them.

This is also why I highly recommend that you have an RV Dash Cam when you are on the road. Nothing like a little “brake check!” for someone to try to collect a payday from you. At least this way, you’ll have the video evidence to show that it isn’t your fault in such an accident!

Comprehensive and Collision Insurance

Second, there’s the physical damage insurance component – think comprehensive and collision. You are likely not required by state law to have this kind of insurance. But if you are like me and have a loan on your RV, your lender likely requires this.

Comprehensive insurance usually covers things like theft, vandalism, and fire. So that’s pretty important in RV life!

Collision insurance usually covers you in case of an accident. Remember, the liability insurance protects other people. Collision protects you! This is what pays out for repairs to your own vehicle.

Uninsured Motorist Coverage

Third, there’s uninsured and underinsured motorist insurance – this is what protects you in case the guy that hits you has no insurance or not enough insurance. Yes, the other driver would be in violation of the law by not having their basic liability insurance, but they also are unlikely to have the funds to pay you directly for any damage.

The underinsured coverage is even more important when you have an expensive RV – as the other driver may not be insured “enough” to fix your pricey RV. You’ll want enough coverage here to make sure that you can fix your RV even if the other guy’s insurance doesn’t pay out.

Medical Payments and Personal Injury Coverage

When it comes to vehicles, it’s not just the property damage that can happen in an accident. Another big risk is the personal injuries that can happen – whether to you or your passengers or the folks in the other vehicle(s).

That’s why some states require personal injury protection or medical payments coverage. This helps cover medical bills that are a result of the accident.

What About My Homeowner’s Coverage?

If you are a part-time RVer, you may be thinking that your homeowners or renters insurance is going to cover you for any losses to your personal belongings.

That’s likely NOT the case. If you have any coverage for the contents of the RV from your homeowner’s insurance policy, it’s likely going to be quite limited.

You’ll likely not be fully insured on the contents of your RV. It’s best to look into specialized coverage for the contents of the RV!

Moreover, your homeowners insurance is not likely to cover your RV itself, no matter if it is a motorhome or a towed RV.

Again, you’ll want a specialized RV insurance policy to make sure that everything is fulled covered!

See Also: Plugging Your RV into Your Home Electric System

What about Travel Trailers and Fifth Wheels?

For those that are towing a travel trailer or fifth wheel, you won’t need the vehicle coverage on the RV like you would for a motorized Class A or Class C. That’s because generally, the liability coverage of the towing vehicle is going to kick in to cover you in case of an accident on the road.

But that means that you need those coverages on your vehicles themselves! I mean, that truck of yours needs insuring too! Oftentimes, if you bundle your vehicle with your RV, you can get discounts. So it is definitely worth shopping with an insurance agent that knows what they are doing when it comes to RV insurance!

Also, if you are borrowing money to buy your RV, your lender might require that you have insurance to cover physical damage. Definitely check your loan paperwork for your requirements!

Even if you paid cash or your lender doesn’t require it, you will want to explore the comprehensive, collision, and personal belongings coverages to protect your investment.

The good news is that since you don’t need those liability coverages, your insurance is going to be cheaper than it would be for a comparable motorhome!

Special RV Insurance Coverages

So on top of the vehicle and contents coverage we’ve already talked about, did you know that there are MORE coverages available specifically for RVs?

• Towing and emergency roadside assistance is available with a lot of RV insurance plans! And in my experience, it is a lot more affordable to add-on to your insurance plan than to get a separate membership to a roadside emergency club that covers RVs! This can also include locksmiths for when you inevitably lock yourself in or out of your RV, battery jump start service, fuel delivery services, and winching services to get you out of sticky situations.
• Vacation Liability is similar to what you get for injuries around your house – this coverage is for while you are parked and tailgating and protects you from people making claims for tripping over the electrical cord or falling into the firepit.
• Emergency Expenses Coverages can be great for helping to cover hotel and transportation expenses while your RV is being fixed after an accident!
• Pest coverage How would you like to have coverage against pests in your RV? I mean, we all have various problems with them at some point. And mice can be really bad when they chew up the wires in your engine. Some RV insurers have pest protection!
• RV Roof Coverage Some insurance companies also offer up RV roof protection! So when that tree branch comes crashing down, you’ll be protected. And the coverages may even insure other parts of your RV that are caused by roof damage – so the water damage inside that is caused by the busted ceiling light could be covered! Hot damn! Some companies even cover normal wear and tear damage which is unusual in the insurance industry.
• Windshield and Glass Coverage can be really important for those large Class A windshields!
• Pet Coverage would cover vet bills if your dog or cat is injured in an accident or while riding in your RV

Note: not all additional coverages are available with all insurance companies. It’s definitely wise to shop around to see what is available and at what price.

Total Loss Replacement

The other big coverage to note is Total Loss Replacement.

In some cases, this means that if you have a total loss on your RV (it’s totaled in an accident on the highway or it’s burned or flooded), you’ll get a brand new RV of the same model year or later. With the same features or better.

And if you decide that after that you are done with RVing or you don’t want to buy one right now, you can get the original purchase price from the insurance company.

Yes, this is one of the more expensive coverages but with everything going on out there, it may be well worth it if something goes wrong!

What Does RV Insurance NOT Cover?

So RV insurance is not some magical thing that will protect you from all things horrible that could potentially happen to you or your RV.

For example, RV insurance is not going to protect you from wear and tear or improperly maintaining your RV.

Most policies are also going to exclude damage from mold, fungi, or rot. In many cases these are the consequences of not maintaining your RV or not repairing damage quickly.

Some policies are also going to exclude damage from flooding and earthquakes.

Definitely make sure that you know what’s covered, especially if you are in or around flood plains!

Traditional Insurance Agents

In my experience, most insurance agents are horrible at getting RV insurance coverage right.

I have a great insurance agent near home. She takes care of my sticks and brick home as well as various other policies that I have.

But when it came to RV insurance, she was hopelessly lost. And that’s pretty common.

See, most agents don’t have experience with RVs. And when they do, they aren’t going to be pricey Class A motorhomes.

A Class A Big Rig with a large price tag is a specialty product. Not everyone has the experience necessary to be able to find you the best prices and the best coverage!

My First Big Rig RV Quote

Back in 2017, when I bought my RV, I asked that agent to get me a quote.

The quotes were a mess. While the quote was reasonable in price, when I dug into the policy, it didn’t have the right coverage.

Remember, this thing is part house and part vehicle. So is $5,000 coverage on your contents going to be sufficient?

I’ve got 4 good size televisions, leather couches, king size bed, a residential fridge (have you seen the price tag on those lately!?!?!), and a stackable washer and dryer.

And my personal stuff – clothes, personal mementos, dishes and pots and pans, and ALL THE TAILGATING GEAR!

Yeah, $5,000 just isn’t going to cover all the contents on a brand new Class A motorhome!

I can also say that I didn’t like the cost that they had in their muddled together proposal – picking and pulling from various different types of policies to cobble together an RV policy. It just didn’t work for me. That’s why I went with a specific RV insurance policy!

How Charlotte Insurance is Different

The team at Charlotte Insurance is different from most agents.

See, they have a TON of experience in writing RV insurance policies. Like years and years worth of it.

And they are a broker – so they are not beholden to any individual RV company. They can shop around against a whole slew of insurance companies to find the best deal for your motorhome or travel trailer! They can tailor the coverages and prices to your RV and your financial condition…

Can’t afford a lot of coverage? Then they can work to tailor the coverage to fit your price tag!

Charlotte Insurance agents are licensed in over half the states in the United States and are adding more states all the time! Even if they aren’t licensed in your state, they can review your existing policies and make suggestions on where you should improve your coverages!

These guys are experts in RV insurance and can get you the best deal for the coverages you need and want at a good price!

And if for some reason you’ve got coverage that they cannot meet on price, the agents are honorable and will tell you that you’ve got a better deal where you are. They aren’t just trying to get the commissions, Charlotte Insurance really wants to find the best insurance coverage for you!

Aren’t Insurance Brokers Expensive?

No! In fact, they don’t cost you a thing. They are paid commissions by the insurance companies that issue you your policy. That means that you don’t have to pay anything directly.

But more importantly, they know insurance – they can cut through all the various coverages and figure out exactly what works best for you! They can clarify what is and what is not covered by the policy, the deductibles, common situations that you may face and why each coverage is important to your RV lifestyle!

Even if you had to pay a small fee, their job of cutting through all the BS and finding the right policy for YOU would make it completely worthwhile. Because who has time to look at 35 different insurance companies and all their offerings to find something that works best for you??? I know I don’t have time for that!

Do You Tow a Car?

When Marty at Charlotte Insurance was shopping my RV and auto insurance, I learned something new.

It was kind of obvious after I thought about it, but I never explicitly knew this before.

So when you have a travel trailer, the liability coverage for your trailer flows through the truck towing it. Which means if you own a travel trailer, you don’t need liability coverage for your RV.

But what about for the motorized guys? People with Class As and Class Cs often tow a car… I’m one of those people.

One of the reasons that insurance companies often require motorized RVers to include the car is because the same rule applies when you are towing. The towed car is covered by the motorhome’s liability insurance while underway.

You’ll still need liability insurance for when you are driving the car, but you’ll also want to make sure your motorhome’s liability coverage is sufficient to cover both your motorhome and your vehicle.

Tow Dolly and Trailer Coverage

Some RV insurance policies also include coverage for the tow dolly or enclosed trailer for your car, motorcycle, or other toys.

If you are in an accident and the tow dolly is damaged, your motorhome’s insurance will cover it.

But only if you have this coverage on your insurance policy! A great reason to work with an independent broker agent like Charlotte Insurance!

RV Insurance When You Are Full-Time

One of the big factors of the price of your RV insurance is going to be how often you use the RV. In fact, this may be the biggest factor after the specific coverages you choose.

When you are a full-time RVer, it may be really tempting to tell the insurance company that you are less than full-time so you can save on your RV insurance.

But therein lies the problem – you’ve just lied to your insurance company. And that is a big problem!

Sure, you may never get caught. But let’s say that you do get in an accident. And the insurance adjuster starts snooping around because you don’t have anywhere to live until you get a new RV! The adjuster figures out that you are full-time and you lied to them. All of a sudden, your claim is denied, and you’ve lost your coverage.

Additional Coverages for Full-Timers

But it’s not all bad news for full-timers. First, you don’t have that expensive home to maintain nor the associated homeowner’s insurance for it.

Second, with full-time RVers insurance, you can add additional coverages that are commonly found in homeowner’s insurance.

Full timer’s liability can also be had for those that are worried about people having injuries in or around your RV. (It’s the same type of coverage that recreational users get out of vacation liability)

Meanwhile, loss assessment can be used for those that are parts of RV associations – buy an RV lot in a neighborhood and then it is damaged by a storm. The loss assessment coverage is useful for those common assessments found in a neighborhood homeowners association.

Another coverage available for full-time RVers would be secured coverage – this is for full-timers that weren’t quite able to sell off all their sticks and bricks furniture and mementos but don’t keep them in the RV. This coverage protects your items in a secured storage area so you don’t need a separate insurance policy.

Scheduling Jewelry and Other Valuables

It’s pretty well known in homeowners insurance that certain valuables are only minimally covered. Things like jewelry, art work, collectibles are usually limited under the personal effects coverage to $500 or $1,000 per piece.

And that’s not a lot for that engagement or wedding ring!

Once you go full-time and no longer have homeowners insurance, you’ll want to make sure that you have anything valuable like jewelry separately covered. You can have a jewelry policy or you can often schedule them separately in your motorhomes insurance policy.

Saving Money by Shopping Your RV Insurance

Times are difficult right now, coming out of two plus years of chaos and now all the turmoil in the economy and the world. It sure would be nice to save some money on your RV insurance.

That’s why I recommend that you shop with the professionals at Charlotte Insurance who can help tailor an RV Insurance policy for you, your RV, and your financial picture! Protect your family from undue hardship should anything bad happen in or around your RV!

Like this RV Insurance Guide? Pin for later!

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7 Common RV Mistakes to Avoid
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The post RV Insurance Explained Before You Shop appeared first on RV Tailgate Life.

It’s the curse of the Black Tank.

But for RV newbies, there really are some tips to poop in an RV toilet and to not mess it up.

And more importantly, for RV tailgaters or any RVer that has non-RVer guests, you’ll need to teach your non-RVer friends how to use the toilet. Without it being a big deal. And I have something that will help you with that later on.

Tips for Using an RV Toilet

Man, how do I always get to writing about poop? Guess it is the RV way, because there really is no shame in an RVer.

Pooping is nature and a requirement of life. And we have to deal with all the waste. Oh well, at least we can have a sense of humor about it. (See: the movie RV with Robin Williams)

Here are the basic rules for using RV Toilets:

Only Human Waste and Toilet Paper Down the Drain

Want to see a great debate? Go on one of the big RV groups on Facebook and ask whether you can put toilet paper down the RV drain.

You’ll get hundreds, yes hundreds, of comments arguing about the toilet paper. You’ll see people that say that no way, no how, that they never put toilet paper down into the black tank because you’ll get clogs. Instead, they put it in a trash can next to the toilet and take the trash out each day.

Personally, that seems weird. Plus, I have a dog that has been known to get into things he shouldn’t. Eeewww!

The key is to use septic safe toilet paper. You don’t even need the fancy (read: expensive) RV safe toilet paper. Septic safe toilet paper is more than fine.

But that is the only non-human waste thing that goes down the drain!

No feminine hygiene products. No paper towels.

And no, none of those “flushable” wipes that create giant fatbergs in city sewers.

If those flushable wipes can help create a 10 ton fatberg in London’s sewers, what do you think they will do for your RV black tank?

Oh, and don’t let the kids put toys down the toilet either.

Just stick with the septic safe toilet paper. That’s the only thing that goes down the toilet drain. This will prevent one of those classic RV stories about black tank blockages.

Water is Your Friend and Your Enemy

When we are out a tailgate or boondocking, we typically don’t have full hookups. Meaning no fresh water coming in and nowhere for the waste to go.

That means we are very high on the water conservation spectrum.

Now, RV toilets are way low flow toilets, at least compared with your regular household toilet. We don’t keep a tank of water there for flushing. This saves us fresh water and also black tank space.

If you are are only going #1 (ie liquid waste) than you don’t need to add any extra water. But if you are going #2, you’ll want to add a very small amount to the toilet bowl before you start.

This will help the waste go down the drain and save you water at the end when you flush.

A Fast Flush

Especially when it is only liquid waste, you really don’t need to use much water to flush the toilet. Instead, you just need to open up the drain and let gravity do it’s thing.

You will want to learn, and then teach guests, how to perform a fast flush to use a minimum of water.

For most RV toilets, this means that you just barely step on the pedal to open the drain and not get a lot of water.

Keep a Toilet Brush Handy

Everyone wants to have a clean toilet bowl. And no one wants to leave, um, skid marks on the bowl.

Most newbie RVers and non-RVing guests will often just try to use more and more water to clean it up.

Instead, you should use a toilet brush. But not those disposable brushes because someone will inevitably throw the disposable head down the toilet and break the first rule above about only human waste and toilet paper.

You’ll also want one that has a stand. That way you can leave it out, right next to the toilet. That will remind people to use the toilet brush to clean up rather than keep running the water.

The Clorox Corner Toilet Brush is a good choice – with the non-slip bottom, you can leave it out even while traveling. It’s got a small footprint so it can fit in any small space around the RV toilet and not get in your way.

 

The bristles also have some weird Clorox coating that they say will help protect against odor-causing bacteria, mold and mildew. I’m not sure how it works, but I’ll just go with magic.

It’s also on the cheap side, so when it gets gross you aren’t going to feel bad about throwing it away.

Buy Now on Amazon!

 

The RV Toilet Cross

Have you ever been told to make the sign of the cross in an RV bathroom?

This is absolutely nothing religious, unless you consider taking a dump a religious experience.

Instead, it is taking two pieces of toilet paper and making a cross over the bottom drain of the toilet bowl.

That way, when you do take a dump, the waste is sitting on the toilet paper. When you push the pedal to empty the bowl, gravity will take it all away at one time.

Leaving you with a clean bowl with no skid marks. And using very little water to make it all go away.

Maintaining the RV Black Tank

While we are in the middle of the tailgate, we want to conserve water as much as we can. But we also know that water is good for the black tank.

The RV black tank needs water to function properly. It will help dissolve the more solid human waste as well as the toilet paper into a more slushy type consistency that makes it easy to empty.

Throughout the tailgate, I will add water to the black tank by throwing the dirty dishwater down the toilet. This is a little gray water saving trick that I learned that really helps keep enough water in the black tank while not wasting fresh water either.

Plus, the dirty dishwater will have Dawn dish washing soap in there. It will help further break down the solids and clean everything up.

Also, normally the last night of the tailgate, after the shower, I am pretty much done with all my heavy water usage. I might have a little in the morning but I can run down a lot of the fresh water tank. So I’ll add several gallons of fresh water into the black water tank as I get closer and closer to the end of the tailgate.

Then, when I’m driving home (I dump at the house), the extra water is sloshing all the contents around and putting all the solids into suspension. This will make it easier to dump and avoid the dreaded poop pyramid.

Click here for more tips on maintaining an RV Black Tank

Remind Visitors of the Rules

Often, it isn’t the RV owners that create the biggest problems with an RV toilet.

It is our well meaning friends who don’t know how different the RV plumbing is from the regular plumbing.

And they want to help keep the RV clean, but don’t realize that they are perhaps wasting so much of our water.

Or just don’t know how to open the drain.

That’s why many RV owners decide to put a little “wall art” in their RV bathroom.

It’s great for those that like me, have visitors regularly in their RV but aren’t RVers. A simple reminder of the rules goes a long ways towards keeping the RV toilet running properly.

How To Poop In An RV Toilet

Well, now you have it folks. You and your guests will be able to safely poop in an RV.

You never had any idea that there’s so much to know about pooping in an RV, did you?

Now, there’s a lot more to maintaining the RV plumbing system, but you are well on your way to success with these tips.

Like these tips? Pin for later!

For more information on RV plumbing and black tanks, you may be interested in:
RV Waste Tanks Explained
Make Your Own RV Black Tank Cleaning Bombs
RV Gray Tanks: The Other RV Waste Tanks
Essential Gear for RV Waste Tanks
Tips for Dealing with RV Odors

The post How to Poop in an RV (aka How to Use the RV Toilet) appeared first on RV Tailgate Life.

Unfortunately, not everyone is familiar with how campgrounds work. Or what some of the written and unwritten rules of RV campground etiquette are.

To help everyone out, here are some of the things to never do at an RV campground:

Never Fail to Read Campground Rules

Every RV campground will have rules about what you can and cannot do in the campground. For most campgrounds, you can read ahead before your arrival on their website. And they are also going to given to you when you check in or they are posted at the office for you to read.

Some common rules include quiet hours (when you need to stop running generators and turn down outside music), whether you can have pets in your RV, and whether you can wash your rig in your campsite.

It’s important that you follow the campground rules. Mostly because if you fail to follow the rules, the campground management can kick you out. And that would surely put a damper on your RV camping trip.

Many of the rest of these RV campground etiquette rules are probably covered in the campground rules you’ll find on their website or at check-in.

Never Spread Out Your Traveling Group

As RV tailgaters, we tend to travel in packs, to support our favorite teams or even vacation together.

Always work with the other RVers in your traveling group to reserve sites close together. Many RV campgrounds will even let you reserve a block of sites together and each pay for their own space.

It is important to get your group close together for a lot of reasons:

1. You have more fun if you are all parked close together.
2. It’s easier to coordinate cooking and meals when you are parked in a group.
3. You are less likely to trip over obstacles the less you have to walk in the dark between campsites.
4. When you are loud and obnoxious, you are less likely to disturb other people not in your group.

Sometimes, it is unavoidable and you can’t get everyone together. And that leads to the next tip.

Never “Cut Through” Occupied Campsites

Hang out in any Facebook group for more than a few days and you’ll see lots of complaints about people cutting through RV sites.

Don’t cut through other people’s campsites. In some places, this could even be considered trespassing.

Some people are just anti-social and there’s nothing you will do to change that. Other people have kids or dogs in the area that won’t react well to you cutting through (especially if you are cutting through with another dog).

In all cases, it’s just rude. That’s their space and they deserve privacy and seclusion as much as you do.

Even at tailgates, be mindful of your neighbors, especially if they are not part of your group. I know that we can all be more relaxed in our rules at the tailgate, but be mindful of each others’ spaces.

It is okay to cut through unoccupied spots though.

RV Campground Review: McKinney Campground at Lake Allatoona, Georgia

Never Overflow Your Space

Just as you need to be mindful of other people’s spaces by not cutting through their sites, you need to respect their space by not overflowing your own RV camping site and into theirs.

This means chairs, tents, dogs, kids, bikes, games, and any other outdoor gear.

It also means any tow or towed vehicles you may have. Or dollies to tow your vehicle.

Even at the tailgate lot, be mindful of what is acceptable and what is not acceptable. Again, we may be more relaxed when you have RV tailgated with the same people for years and have a community of sorts.

This is especially important on the road, when the home football tailgate rules don’t always apply.

And yes, it can be really hard sticking to your spots, especially in certain circumstances like the infield RV camping at Atlanta Motor Speedway where you barely have enough room for your RV.

Never Block the Roadway Longer Than Necessary

Many RV campgrounds have one way streets and with these large behemoths that we drive, we don’t have a lot of maneuverability on those roads.

So never block the roadway…. for longer than necessary.

Yes, we all know that you’ll block the roadway for a bit while you are setting up or hooking up before you leave. But do this as quickly as possible so you don’t block others coming and going.

But never leave the roadway blocked for long periods of time. Don’t park a car in the roadway and leave.

This is totally rude and could be a real danger in the case of a medical emergency or need to evacuate.

See Also: Must Have RV Safety Gear

Never Interfere With Others’ Peace and Quiet

Especially during quiet hours.

Yes, this means that you’ll have to turn down the music at night.

Also, be mindful when you are coming in late at night to keep things as quiet as possible. This might mean keeping your camping setup to a minimum until everyone wakes up in the morning.

Nevers for RV Camping with Dogs

We love to go RV camping with our four-legged family members. But they have their own set of RV Campground Etiquette Rules.

Never Let Your Dog Loose

Way back at the beginning, there was mention of reading the campground rules.

One of the biggest rules is to not let your dog run loose. They must always be on a leash and under your control.

This is for their safety as well as all the other dogs and people around.

Since we are all traveling so much, we are putting our dogs in a lot of new places, with new people, and possibly new triggers. They are animals and we never know what will set them off. So keep them under your control.

Many RV campgrounds require that the leash be no more than six feet long. If this is the rule at your campground, even the nice retractable leashes aren’t permitted.

This may be annoying when you say “not my dog” but it as much for their safety as it is other dogs’ safety. Your dog may not be aggressive but other dogs may be. Keeping your dog close lets you control the situation better.

RV Campground Review: Oak Mountain State Park, Birmingham, Alabama

Never Leave a Loud Barking Dog Behind

Many people are out camping because they want to get away from the city noise and bustle. And they don’t want their peace to be invaded by a barking dog.

The occasional bark is acceptable, particularly if someone is bothering your RV. But what people get angry with is the dog that never stops barking, especially when its owners are gone.

If your dog barks a lot, consider training them to not bark. It may take figuring out their triggers, like say seeing someone walking near the RV. In which case, perhaps it is best to keep the shades drawn so your dog can’t see out.

Or using a device like a barker collar. If you are against using a barker collar, another similar alternative is an ultrasonic anti-bark device. Both devices are intended to train dogs to not bark.

I used a barker collar on Burdell when he was young and now he typically doesn’t bark unnecessarily. In fact, I used to complain that he wouldn’t bark enough when Amazon was delivering packages to my front door.

Never Leave Dog Waste Behind

You know what’s worse than stepping in dog poop? Stepping in someone else’s dog’s poop.

It’s also the quickest way to get your RV neighbors really mad at you.

And also be a danger to area wildlife and other pets.

You’ll want to keep dog poop bags handy – I like to keep a dispenser clipped right next to the door so that it easy to remember to pick up when taking the dog out for a walk.

So just pick up your poop. Dispose of it properly.

See Also: 10 Tips for RV Tailgating With Dogs

Never Leave Waste in a Fire Pit

Speaking of waste, it’s always best to pick up your waste, whether it is the dog’s poop or your own trash.

Please don’t dispose of waste in the fire pit at the campsite.

If you burn plastic in a campfire, you are releasing some dangerous chemicals and fumes that can do immediate damage to you and long-term damage to the environment.

The Family Handyman has 10 things not to burn in camp fires, including plastic.

In addition, you shouldn’t treat a fire pit as a waste container, even if you aren’t burning anything. It’s an eyesore for everyone and if you leave it behind, someone else, either the next camper or a campground employee, will have to clean it up. And who wants to clean up someone else’s trash?

Seriously, just dispose of all your waste properly.

(This picture is from the fire pit at my recent stay at Lake Gunthersville State Park in Alabama. I don’t want to see your trash or have to clean up after you. And neither should the state park staff. Always leave your camp site in a better state than when you arrived.)

RV Campground Review: Oak Plantation RV Campground, Charleston, South Carolina

Never Fail to Secure the Sewer Hose

Have you ever been walking through an RV campground when you get a whiff of some horrible sewer smells?

There’s a good chance that an RVer failed to secure the sewer hose at the connection.

Most sewer hoses and connections are threaded nowadays, but that doesn’t mean that the hose will always fit perfectly. Extreme temperatures and lots of use can warp the pipes and strip the thread.

So if your hose does not securely fit into the RV connection, make sure that you are weighing down the connection with a saddlebag or RV sewer doughnut seal.

This will help you and your neighbors from suffering from horrible sewer gas smells while you should be enjoying your RV campground.

After all, it’s only good RV campground etiquette.

Any Other RV Campground Etiquette Rules?

Did I miss any RV campground etiquette rules? If so, comment below with your suggestions or comments.

Like these tips? Share on Pinterest!

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The post RV Campground Etiquette: 11 Things to Never Do appeared first on RV Tailgate Life.

And since most of us can’t take our pets into football games (or restaurants or many of our other RV adventures), we need a way to remotely monitor the temperatures inside the RV.

Thus, RV Pet Temperature Monitors.

Cellphone Based RV Temperature Monitors

Cellphone based systems have their own cellphone service to communicate with the temperature monitor’s manufacturer’s servers who then communicate with you. This means that the monitoring is location independent and not dependent on spotty campground WiFi.

Those RVers out boondocking in spotty cellphone coverage may have difficulties getting consistent alerts in cases of problems at the RV. However, most monitors transmit minimal data meaning that alerts may still get out in marginal cell coverage (kind of like how text messages can work at football games even if Facebook won’t because of the heavy data use).

Cell based RV pet temperature monitors may send you alerts for high or low temperatures or humidity via text, email, call, or smartphone application, depending on specific service and options.

Waggle RV PetSafety Pet Temperature Monitor

RV PetSafety Pet Temperature Monitor was designed specifically with the RV pet owner in mind.

Pros:

• Real-time updates on conditions through smartphone app
• GPS tracking in case your RV is lost or stolen
• Includes 1 year cell subscription when purchased from Amazon

Cons:

• Monthly subscription costs after first year
• Fee for starting or stopping monthly subscriptions
• Only one sensor and only monitors temperatures

Ideal For: Full-time RVers with pets that are regularly left alone for long periods while RVer is at work or on excursions during extreme temperatures (heat or cold). The GPS tracking is also an ideal feature for travel trailer owners as travel trailers are at a higher risk of being stolen than Class A or Class C RVs.

Currently, the annual plan is $120/year ($10/month) while the monthly plan is $15/month with $5 fees for every time you start or stop service, quickly running up the total cost for part-time or seasonal RVers.

Buy Now: RV PetSafety Pet Temperature Monitor

MarCELL PRO Cellular Monitoring System with Water Sensor

The MarCELL cellular temperature monitors are more robust and intended for a greater variety of uses beyond simple RV pet temperature monitoring. Used by real estate professionals, HVAC monitoring, and server rooms, the MarCELL is tested in a variety of conditions. The water sensors, also known as SPucks, can be converted into a “normally open” dry contact which can be used to alert you to things like entry into a room (think thieves during storage).

 

Pros:

• Additional Flooding and Lost Power Alerts
• Powered via 120V adapter or USB which lets you use 12V RV system
• Can turn off monthly monitoring without fees, so long as you use it 4 months per year
• Can add additional water sensors to detect possible flooding issues

Cons:

• Monthly subscription costs
• No GPS tracking for the RV
• Only one temperature/humidity sensor

Ideal For: Full-time or part-time RVers that will leave their pets unattended in the RV and are also worried about potential flooding/pipe bursts and indoor humidity. With a less likely chance of being stolen, Class A and Class C RV owners may be less interested than travel trailer owners in the GPS tracking that the RV PetSafety monitor offers. Meanwhile, the option to convert SPucks into an entry alarm may be useful in case of thieves attempting to gain entry to steal the contents of your RV.

Buy Now: MarCELL PRO Cellular Monitoring System with Water Sensor

MarCELL Cellular monitoring with Water SPuck

The original MarCELL monitor does not have a smartphone app that lets to monitor conditions in real time. Despite this, the MarCELL monitor continuously monitors the conditions and will send an update immediately upon a trigger (temperature, humidity, flooding, power).

 

Pros:

• Additional Flooding and Lost Power Alerts
• Powered via 120V adapter or USB which lets you use 12V RV system
• Can turn off monthly monitoring without fees
• Can add additional water sensors to detect possible flooding issues

Cons:

• Monthly subscription costs, although lower than the MarCELL PRO plans
• No smartphone application to see real-time conditions
• No warning when battery completely discharges
• Only one temperature/humidity sensor

Ideal For: Seasonal RVers that may occasionally leave their pets (particularly RV tailgaters during football season) but don’t need constant coverage for their pets.

Cheaper subscription plans make the MarCELL ideal for cost conscious RVers. Currently, there are three plans, with monthly being $14.95, seasonal (4-8 month plans) being $11.95/month, and annual being $99/year ($8.25/month). There are no stop/start fees for MarCELL, unlike the RV PetSafety monitor, as long as you don’t leave it suspended for more than 6 months.

If you are traveling in Canada, then make sure you get the AT&T version. The Verizon version does not work in Canada.

Buy Now: MarCELL Cellular monitoring with Water SPuck

DeWalt MobileLock DS600 Portable Alarm System

The DeWalt MobileLock is designed primarily as a security system but it also has high and low temperature settings and alarms, serving multiple purposes. Added GPS tracking and accessories, like a cable lock, make it great all-purpose security plus temperature monitoring system.

 

Pros:

• High and Low Temperature Settings and Alarms/li>
• GPS tracking
• Can turn off monthly monitoring for a low fee
• Can add door and window sensors and motion sensors to detect intrusions into your RV. A cable lock can also be added to secure generators, bikes, and other gear and will alert you when unlocked or the cable cut.

Cons:

• Monthly subscription costs
• No smartphone application to see real-time conditions
• One-time activation fee of $20 in addition to product costs
• Limited GPS locate services included in standard plan; additional fees for more location requests or high volume tracking.

Ideal For: Part-time or weekend RVers that need security between trips and temperature monitoring all the time. Built-in batteries mean that this works without a power source, so the system will work even if you have to store without power hookups.

But if you do have power hookups, you can set an alert to notify you if power has been disconnected. This can act as an early alert system if the power goes out with your pet inside, before the temperatures rise from the A/C being out.

Buy Now: DeWalt MobileLock DS600 Portable Alarm System

See Also: Pets Disaster Preparedness: RV Edition

WiFi Based RV Pet Temperature Monitors

WiFi RV pet temperature monitors use a local wireless network to connect instead of a cell network. This means that you either need to be stationary or have a supplemental internet connection, like from a MiFi or other WiFi hotspot, like a second cell phone or cell activated tablet.

The benefit is that many people already have these, meaning no additional monthly fees for monitoring the RV conditions, even when away from home. With the limited data transferred, you won’t use up limited hotspot bandwidth for the limited hours that most RV tailgaters need the monitoring for (during the game).

Unfortunately, the WiFi temperature monitoring systems typically will not work with RV campground WiFi systems or those that require web browser login.

Without the cell phone connections, the WiFi temperature monitors typically have longer battery life, with each lasting over a year. The sensors typically have user replaceable batteries, either AA or watch style batteries commonly found in grocery or big box stores (like Wal-Mart) or even pharmacies.

Most WiFi temperature monitor systems will send an alert when they lose contact with the internet. So while you may not have GPS tracking with these systems, you can be immediately alerted if the sensors, and thus the RV, move outside your WiFi network.

Smart Air Quality Monitor

The Amazon Air Quality Monitor works with your Ring Alarm Pro system to monitor temperature, humidity, carbon monoxide, and VOCs inside your RV (or home). Great dual purpose for carbon monoxide and temperature for both humans and pets.

 

Pros:

• Connects with the Ring Alarm Pro system
• History by week, day, hour available on app
• Easy setup.
• Can add routines with Alexa-enabled devices when certain conditions met (temperature, humidity)

Cons:

• Needs Ring or Alexa apps to operate as part of the larger system.
• No GPS tracking
• Few RV-specific Alexa-enabled devices so far.

Ideal For: RVers that have Ring security system in their RV.

This is a great add-on to the Ring Alarm PRO RV security system. Easily integrate in with other Alexa-enabled devices to monitor not just temperature, but also different aspects of air quality and then create routines that can automatically start when certain conditions are reached (ie turn a heater on with a plug during winter, turn on a dehumidifier, etc).

Can also add the Flood and Freeze Sensor which is great for monitoring for potential burst pipes in winter or just regular old water and plumbing mishaps.

Highly recommend the Ring Alarm Pro system for remote monitoring, including cameras, and basic automation of the RV. The system itself does require subscription for most remote monitoring capabilities, but include its own cell-based connection.

Buy Now: Amazon Smart Air Quality Monitor

SensorPush Wireless Thermometer and Hygrometer

The SensorPush system is made by a team of Internet and technology geeks in New York. This system is accessible via Bluetooth or WiFi and is easily expandable to add additional sensors. Pairing the sensors with the gateway allows you to disable Bluetooth for improved battery life on both the sensors and your phone.

 

Pros:

• Easily expand system to add additional sensors for RV wet bay, fridge, etc.
• Use Bluetooth for local readings if WiFi not available
• Maintains 20 days of data between syncs
• Gateway can plug directly into Ethernet cable if hard-wired connection is available

Cons:

• No water sensors for flooding/burst pipes
• No GPS tracking
• Sensors are not waterproof so outside applications need to be protected from rain, dew, etc

Ideal For: Full-time or part-time RVers that leave pets unattended only occasionally and for limited periods (ie not daily work).

Meanwhile, the Bluetooth and expanded system let you monitor additional spots, like the fridge and freezer (for food safety purposes) and the wetbay (during winter to prevent pipes from freezing). With the long-range system of the SensorPush sensors, you can easily monitor an RV parked in a garage, outside your house, or even in a detached building on your property during winter.

One sensor and one gateway is approximately the same cost as the Temp Stick system. The advantage comes from the additional sensors that are a third of the price of the Temp Stick.

Buy Now: SensorPush Wireless Thermometer and Hygrometer | SensorPush WiFi Gateway

Temp Stick Wireless Temperature Sensor

One device to monitor temperature and humidity inside your RV with no monthly subscription fees.

 

Pros:

• No monthly subscription fees
• No gateway device required
• Unlimited history of readings on App or web account

Cons:

• No phone call alert options; only text and email
• No AC/DC power options; only AA batteries
• Full price for additional sensors

Ideal For: RVers that want a simple system to monitor temperatures while your pet is left unattended in your RV without monthly subscription fees.

Buy Now: Temp Stick Wireless Temperature Sensor

La Crosse Wireless Monitoring System with Dry Probe

All the above options can be pricey for a budget conscious RVer that needs remote temperature monitoring. La Crosse has a more budget friendly option but may be more difficult to setup and be less nomad or travel friendly.

 

Pros:

• Dry probe lets you extend wire to secondary location (outside or wetbay)
• Easily add up to 5 additional probes, including water sensor
• Weather resistant case with on-sensor temperature display

Cons:

• Subscription required for continued email and text alerts
• Gateway must be hooked directly to router
• Short battery life

Ideal For: Stationary RVers or for offseason storage where an ethernet connection is available for the gateway. Cheapest option for remote monitoring. May be an option for part-time RVers to monitor conditions in their sticks and bricks home rather than their RV.

Currently, the first three months of email and text alerts are free. After that, a one year subscription is $11.88 ($0.99/month) making it much cheaper than the cellular based RV pet temperature monitoring systems.

Buy Now: La Crosse Wireless Monitoring System with Dry Probe | Add-on WaterLeak Probe

See Also: Tips for Tailgating with Man’s Best Friend

“Other” RV Pet Temperature Monitors

There are quite a few weather stations and similar temperature monitors that can help in a pinch. However, these are generally not recommended for monitoring pets in your RV. They are better suited for monitoring conditions while the RV is in storage at your home between trips.

AcuRite Indoor Temperature and Humidity Station

Leave one sensor inside the RV, one in the wetbay, and one in the fridge with the base station in your garage. Monitor temperatures to prevent freezing pipes during the winter. Cost effective solution to check temperatures without going into the RV. See basic information at a glance from inside your garage or home.

 

Pros:

• Three additional sensors each with their own displays
• No subscription fees
• Battery powered (AA and AAA)

Cons:

• Additional purchase required for offsite remote access to current conditions
• No GPS tracking
• No sensors for busted pipes or flooding

Ideal For: Offseason RV storage at your home where you can regularly check temperatures inside the RV. Since both the display and the sensors are battery powered, you don’t have to worry about plugging the RV into home electric to monitor conditions inside the RV.

Not recommended for remote monitoring with unattended pets left inside the RV unless sensors paired with the pricey Acurite Access. At that price, you should purchase one of the above systems made specifically for remote access.

Buy Now: AcuRite Indoor Temperature and Humidity Station

Alfred Home Security App

See Also: Tips to Stay Cool at the Tailgate

How Do You Monitor RV Temperatures?

Do you have another way of monitoring the temperature (and perhaps humidity/water) conditions in your RV? What’s the best RV pet temperature monitoring system?

Let everyone know if you have any other ideas that should be considered by commenting below.

Don’t forget to pin for later reference!

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The post Comparing the Best RV Pet Temperature Monitors appeared first on RV Tailgate Life.

And does it matter what kind of RV you have? Do you need an engine like a Class A or Class C or do Fifth Wheels and Travel Trailers to claim your RV on your taxes?

First, let’s get a little legal stuff out of the way: RV Tailgate Life does not provide tax, legal or accounting advice. This material has been prepared for informational purposes only, and is not intended to provide, and should not be relied on for, tax, legal or accounting advice. You should consult your own tax, legal and accounting advisors.

OK, now that the lawyer people are happy… let’s talk all about RV tax deductions.

RV as a Home Mortgage Interest Deduction

If you financed your RV, you might be able to take the interest on your RV loan as mortgage interest deduction.

Let’s take a look at the rules, limitations, and other things you need to know to be able to claim your RV on your taxes as home mortgage interest.

Does the RV Qualify for Home Mortgage Interest Deduction?

The basic rules for RVs as a second home (or first home, for that matter) have not changed in recent years. Your RV (motorhome, travel trailer, fifth wheel, or van) needs to be a qualified home and have a secured debt under the limitations.

There are also some limitations on whether you can use your interest on your RV loan as a home mortgage interest deduction if you rented out your RV during the year. But more on that in a second.

Qualified Home

First and foremost, the question will be whether your RV is a qualified home. Generally, this means that you need sleeping, cooking, and toilet facilities. Class A, B, C, Fifth Wheels and travel trailers should all qualify under these guidelines.

However, many vans may not qualify – in particular the toilet facilities may be missing. If you believe that your van qualifies, you should probably clearly document that you have each of these facilities by showing purchase records for the equipment and taking extensive photos each year.

You can take a home mortgage interest deduction on your main home and a second home.

If you have a fifth wheel or travel trailer, the interest on your tow vehicle will not be deductible as home mortgage interest. Neither will any towed vehicle for a Class A or Class C motorhome. But the interest on the camper/travel trailer/motorhome/RV itself remains deductible.

See Also: Plugging Your RV Into Home Electric

Secured Debt

In order to qualify, the mortgage must be a secured debt. This means that the RV must “secure” the debt – if you fail to pay the loan, then the bank could repossess your RV to satisfy the outstanding amount on the loan.

If you financed through a major bank, your RV loan is probably secured debt. However, if you used a personal loan to obtain the money to buy the RV, it would not be a secured loan. In many (most?) states, you can tell an RV is security for a secured loan based on the Certificate of Title from the local tag agent. If the RV title has lien or security interest noted on it, then it would be a secured loan.

For more information on the home mortgage interest deduction, see the IRS’s Publication 936: Home Mortgage Interest Deduction

Other Limitations for RV Mortgage Interest Deductions

Dollar Limitation

For your main home and your second home combined, you can only take the deduction on the first $750,000 of indebtedness. This does not mean $750,000 in interest, but rather $750,000 in principal.

If you exceed this limitation, you may have to reduce the interest you can deduct. At this level, please make sure to consult a tax professional because you probably have a lot more going on than just RV deductions.

In 2017 and prior, the limitation for the principal indebtedness for both the first and second homes combined was $1 million. It sure had a better ring to it, the million dollar limit, than the three-quarters of a million dollar limit. Oh well, Congress obviously didn’t seek my input on this change.

Rental Use of RV

Did you know that you can take interest deduction on a second home even if you never used it during the year? So even if you just left it in storage the entire year and never spent one night in it, you can still use the interest deduction on your taxes.

However, if you rent your RV out to others, then you must use it as a home at least 14 days or more than 10% of the days it was rented out, whichever is more. Otherwise, you’ll lose the home mortgage interest deduction. But you might gain it back under rental or business property.

If you rent your RV out, you need to keep careful track of the number of nights you use the RV personally and the number of nights you rent it out. Keep a calendar or log to show the tax man if they ever come to audit your taxes.

See Also: Go RV Tailgating with RVShare

Can You Use the Deduction?

Even if you have qualified interest on your RV, you may not be able to or want to use the interest deduction on your federal income taxes. To take advantage of the home mortgage interest deduction, you need to itemize your deductions on Schedule A of Form 1040.

According to the Tax Foundation, only about 30% of income tax filers itemize their deductions. Everyone else either takes the standard deduction or has zero or negative income and were not able to take advantage of any deductions.

For tax year 2017, the standard deduction was $12,700 for married couples filing jointly. If you were single or married filing separately, the standard deduction was $6,350.

In tax year 2018 and beyond, the standard deductions are higher, much higher. The new standard deduction was $12,000 for singles and $24,000 for married couples filing jointly in 2018 and $12,200 for singles and $24,400 for married couples in 2019. In 2020, it was $12,400 for single taxpayers and $24,800 for married couples filing jointly. In 2021, the standard deduction was $12,550 for singles and $25,100 for married couples.

You would only want to itemize if your total deductions are more than the standard deductions. So if you combine all your deductions, like mortgage interest, charitable donations, student loan interest, and anything else on Schedule A, you need it to be more than $12,950 if you are single or $25,900 if you are married.

You May Not Get a 1098 Form

Because RVs are not houses in the traditional sense, it is very likely that you will not get a Form 1098 from your lender. It’s OK, you can still use the deduction. If you received a 1098, then you report this on Schedule A, line 10.

If you did not receive a 1098, then it will go on Line 11. You’ll need to send information about your lender, including their taxpayer identification number. If this was not provided to your statements, you may need to request their taxpayer identification number by sending them a Form W-9. If you don’t have this information, you could be subject to a $50 penalty for each failure to report the accurate information.

What About After the Trump Tax Bill?

The Tax Cuts and Jobs Act was a major tax reform bill passed in December 2017. There were a lot of major tax consequences from that law that affect you.

New Standard Deduction

Like I mentioned above, under the new tax laws that went into effect for 2018, the standard deduction was greatly increased with future standard deduction increases tied to inflation.

That makes it even more unlikely that you will have mortgage interest to deduct.

If you are single, that means you need more than $1,080 in deductions monthly before you itemize. If your RV interest is your only deduction, that puts you in the range of a $250,000 finance amount at 5.25% interest rate on a 15 year loan. And a half a million dollar motorhome if you are married. That’s some high end diesel pushers right there!

And as you pay the loan down and pay less interest every year, you’ll drop below the standard deductions unless you have additional deductions that you can itemize.

New Dollar Limitation on Home Mortgages

In 2017, the home mortgage interest deduction was for the first $1 million in indebtedness on the first and second homes. Under the new tax bill, this has been changed to $750,000.

There was some discussion on home equity loans and lines of credit and whether they would still qualify under the new limitation. On February 21, 2018, the IRS said that interest on these home equity loans would be deductible.

Fifth Wheels, Travel Trailers, and Towables

In December 2017, the Recreational Vehicle Industry Association (RVIA) scared a lot of people regarding whether fifth wheels, travel trailers, and other towable RVs would be deductible under the new tax laws.

And this rumor just won’t die!

First, this was much ado about nothing. Towable RVs are generally less expensive than motorized RVs because they don’t have an engine. (OK, not always, but often enough that it can be a general rule of thumb).

With the higher standard deductions, many people with towable RVs may not need the itemized deduction from the home mortgage interest deduction.

The Legal Analysis Stuff on Towables and Tax Deductions

Second, I have reviewed the text of the final bill. I am having a hard time trying to make the leap that the RVIA does that towables are not included. In fact, the logic doesn’t even make sense.

According to the RVIA, first and second homes can include RVs, but only motorized ones. They state that the “new law only allows deduction for “any self-propelled vehicle designed for transporting persons or property on a public street, highway, or road,” which does not include towable RVs such as travel trailers and fifth wheels.”

Section 163 of the Internal Revenue Code is about the deductibility of interest in a variety of contexts. It’s a long and complicated section. But for this discussion, the relevant parts are subsections h and j.

Subsection h is the limits on home interest deduction. This is where the secured debt and qualified home requirements come from. Subsection j is on business interest.

The problem is that the language about self-propelled vehicles is in subsection j, specifically on floor plan financing interest. Floor plan financing is what the RV dealer uses when they buy the RVs that they will then sell to the public.

This limitation isn’t about you or me, this is about the RV dealership. Now, from an industry standpoint, it is something very important.

Don’t let the internet rumors scare you.

However, because of the higher standard deductions, you may not need to itemize your deductions to minimize your tax liability and thus not need the RV loan interest.

See Also: 10 Things to Know About RV Tailgating

Local and State RV Tax Deductions

Ad Valorem Taxes

An ad valorem tax is based on the value of your property. Many people are familiar with ad valorem taxes on their cars, if their home state charges them. In many states, you pay the ad valorem tax when you get your car’s annual tags.

These ad valorem taxes are typically deductible on Schedule A, like the home mortgage interest deduction. Any ad valorem taxes you pay on your motorhome would similarly be deductible.

Another value based tax that you paid is probably a sales or use tax when you bought your RV (unless you are in one of those states that doesn’t charge sales tax). So, if you are like me and bought in 2017, you may be able to take advantage of a sales tax deduction. This is another tax deduction that goes on Schedule A, so it’s available only if you itemize your taxes.

See Also: Think Twice Before Using a Montana LLC to Register Your RV and Avoid Sales Taxes

Limitation for 2018 and Beyond

Under the new tax bill, state and local tax deductions are capped at $10,000.

So if you recently bought your RV and plan on taking advantage of the sales tax deduction on your return due in 2023, you’ll need additional deductions to get over the standard deduction (state income tax deduction, mortgage interest deduction, charitable contributions, etc).

RV for Business Purposes

If you have an RV and are intending to use if for business purposes, good for you. But be careful about the personal use of the RV.

Sometimes, even trivial personal use could make it a dwelling and disqualify the business purpose, as the Jacksons found out in this court case.

If you want to use an RV for a purely business purpose, you are going to have to carefully document exactly how and why it is not personal use. You best consult a tax attorney on this one.

If you are only intending to deduct part of the use of the RV as a business expense, you may have some additional RV tax deductions available.

See More: Can You Take a Home Office Deduction in your RV?

RV Tax Deductions for Business Miles

Depending on the hows and the whys, you may be able to deduct some mileage on your RV. The standard rate for 2017 was $0.535 per mile, in 2018, it was $0.545 per mile for the business miles driven. In 2020, the rate was $0.575 per mile and in 2021, it was $0.56 per mile.

For 2023, the IRS has announced that the standard rate for mileage deduction is $0.655 per mile for standard business use. That’s for miles driven in 2023 and reported on your return due April 15, 2024.

You could also use actual expenses to include gas, oil, tires, repairs, tune-ups, insurance, and registration fees. Because RV maintenance is so expensive and we typically get really bad MPG, you may come out better this way.

But again, you’ll need detailed logs of both the expenses and the personal vs. business use of the RV. You can only deduct the business portion of the expenses.

If you are going to use your RV in full or part in your business, you really should consult with a tax professional to see what will work best for your situation.

See Also: RV Security System by Ring Alarm Pro

Renting Your RV as a Business

One increasingly popular RV business for part-time RVers is to rent the RV out for others to use it.

If you rent your RV out as a business, you can gain additional business expenses and tax deductions. These expenses and deductions include depreciation, commissions paid to the rental management company, advertising fees, insurance, cleaning and other maintenance.

For more on residential rental property, see the IRS’s Publication 527 on Residential Rental Property.

Frequently Asked Questions about RV Tax Deductions

Final Thoughts to Maximizing RV Tax Deductions

Don’t buy an RV for the tax deductions! RVs are almost always depreciating assets and expensive to maintain. Any potential tax benefits just are not going to be worth it unless you enjoy the rest of RV life.

And now that I’ve done my taxes and deducted my RV as a second home…. it’s time to go enjoy an adult beverage.

However, after you buy, do take advantage of all the tax deductions and benefits to make an RV more affordable. So you can take more trips and more tailgates!

I know I’ve earned and so have you!

RV Tailgate Life does not provide tax, legal or accounting advice. This material has been prepared for informational purposes only, and is not intended to provide, and should not be relied on for, tax, legal or accounting advice. You should consult your own tax, legal and accounting advisors.

See Also:
Fact or Fiction: Registering RV in a Montana LLC to Avoid Sales Tax
RV Insurance Explained Before Your Shop
TPMS: Protect RV Tires with Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems
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The post How to Maximize RV Tax Deductions appeared first on RV Tailgate Life.

And if you are fortunate enough to be able to park your RV at your house, you can even plug your RV into your house’s 120-volt electrical system without special RV hookups. And no storage fees!

It’s not a difficult process to plug the RV into your home electrical system. Really, even our friends in Athens can do it. No electrical engineering degree required!

Don’t worry full-timers, we love you too! But you have to admit, there are some benefits to stick and brick homes. Some you may even miss.

We know the awesome benefits of the full-time life, with the ability to get new neighbors and see new places at the drop of a hat. It’ll be fun when I can retire and do that too. In the meantime, I’m going to enjoy the extra space while I can.

Benefits of Plugging the RV In

It’s really nice to be able to plug your RV into an electrical system while it is in storage or between uses.

RV Batteries Stay Charged

First, plugging in your RV will keep your batteries charged up between uses. You won’t ever have to come out to the RV after a period of non-use to find out it won’t crank because the batteries are dead.

Because that would be a horrible way to start a weekend football road trip.

RV Fridge Stays Cold

Second, by plugging in and providing power to your RV between trips, you can keep your fridge running between uses.

I turn my fridge and freezer to the warmest settings that are still on. By keeping the fridge running, you don’t have to worry about mold growing while you aren’t using it.

Or you can treat the RV fridge as your extended beer fridge!

And during football season, when you are using the RV every weekend, you don’t have to unpack all the non-perishable stuff.

When it comes to those mid-week or early departures, the fridge will be nice and cool when you pack it (which means a lower risk of food poisoning, another way to ruin a great weekend of RV tailgating!) All this without using up the propane in your tank!

Small Electronics Can Run

Third, with the RV plugged in, you can run small electronics in your RV – the ones that take power.

Some of the small electronics that I run include:

• The ultrasonic pest repellent that I use to keep ants, mice, and other critters away from the RV.
• A small dehumidifier to control humidity in the RV. Electric dehumidifiers seem to work much better than the bucket of Damp Rid.
• In the winter when the temperatures are below freezing, I’ve used electric space heaters to prevent the pipes from freezing up.
• You can monitor your RV with the Ring Alarm Pro, including cameras, air quality, and security.

Power Your Power Tools for RV Maintenance and Mods

Finally, when you are working on your RV, it’s great to have power. Power tools require, well, power.

Sure, battery-powered tools are awesome but if you are doing a large project, the battery will wear out. And plugged in versions are often more powerful. (Even though it is often really hard to beat the Ryobi battery tools for pure convenience!)

And if you are working in the RV during summer, you’ll want some fans and maybe even the air conditioner. Or if you want to wait until night time, you’ll probably want to use lights and all that jazz! Wouldn’t it be awesome if you didn’t have to use the generator for this?

Thus, you need to be able to hook up to your home electric.

Is it 110 volt or 120 volt?

In the United States, they are the same thing for all practical purposes.

Today, the standard is 120 volts in your home for regular outlets (240 has two 120 for larger appliances like ovens and dryers). But it used to be 110.

And for whatever reason, mostly habits being hard to break, the public has stuck with 110 in common nomenclature.

So when we talk about plugging in your RV at home, you’ll be plugging into the 120 volt system. Unless your home is more than 50-60 years old and the electrical hasn’t been updated, then it might actually be 110. But it’s the same common plug.

See Also: Tips for RV Winter Storage with Power

How to Plug In the RV to Home Electric

You can go the expensive way: have an electrician come out and wire a plug for your RV, either 30 amp or 50 amp service. If you go this way, it’ll be like sitting at the campground with full service. You can run everything in your RV all at once, including air conditioners.

Or you can go the cheaper way. It’s not as effective because you’ll be using your home’s 120 volt AC system, not the RV’s 14 volt DC system. You’ll have to convert it from your 30 or 50 amp service to the 15 amp service. Then you can plug it directly to the standard three prong plug in your garage.

For 30 amp RVs, you’ll need: 30a female to 15a male. Remove the 30 amp plug from the generator plug, like you would at an RV campground. Then plug it into this adapter. Then you can plug the adapter into your heavy duty outdoor extension cord.

Buy Now: 30 amp to 15 amp RV Adapter

For 50 amp RVs, you’ll need: 50a female to 30a male and then the 30a female to 15a male. Yes, you’ll need both!

Remove the 50 amp plug from the generator plug, like you would at an RV campground. Then plug it into the first adapter (50a female to 30a male). This then gets plugged into the second adapter (30a female to 15a male) which together you can then plug the adapter into your heavy duty outdoor extension cord.

Buy Now: 50 amp to 30 amp RV Adapter

Limits on the Appliances You Can Use

Because of the smaller amp service, you probably won’t be able to run your RV air conditioner. In fact, when I come in from a roadtrip and plug in, if I have forgotten to turn off the A/C first, it will trip the circuit in the home’s electrical panel. So make sure you know where the circuit panel is. Because you will forget.

Microwaves and hair dryers are also going to be iffy on whether you can run them. Best case, go inside your home to use those appliances. If you need the hair dryer for some kind of repair work on the RV, run an extension cord from a different circuit out to the RV.

A different circuit is important. Don’t try running too much from one circuit – you might as well be using everything plugged into the RV. You will trip the breaker. Trust me.

More Recommendations

The Adapter and Cord Connections

I prefer the dog-bone adapters rather than the simple plug adapters. In the typically limited space at the generator plug, you don’t want to be stacking up adapters with no room to go. It’s hard enough getting your hands in there to pull the plugs out, don’t be limiting your space even more.

Once you have all the dog-bone adapters setup, try to put all the connections inside the RV power cubby. Try not to expose the connections to the elements to help reduce the risk of damage from water.

Also if possible, use a plug in your garage, not an outdoor plug. Again, keep the connections out of the elements as much as you can. You will reduce the risk of fire by keeping the connections protected.

Heavy Duty Outdoor Extension Cord

I recommend that you use a heavy duty outdoor extension cord. First, it will be exposed to the elements. So make sure that it is in good repair.

New is preferable. (Did you know that extension cords have a limited lifespan?)

Indoor extension cords are not suitable for outdoor use or exposure to the elements. They are also typically not suitable for the larger loads that you may put on the cord with it plugged into the RV.

Get yourself that heavy duty outdoor extension cord for safety!

Monitor Your RV

Don’t ignore your RV. It’s easy to do when you aren’t using it every week during the off-season.

You should check in at least weekly to make sure that everything is working appropriately.

The dehumidifier may need emptying. Check that there is no standing water or leaks, a problem that will be made worse by electricity.

While you are at it, inspect that extension cord to make sure that there is no damage to it – cars running over it, critters eating at the cord, or even a lawnmower chopping it up. All can lead to damage to your home or your RV.

See Also: RV Security System by Ring Alarm Pro

Power Your RV with Home Electric

See, it wasn’t that hard to plug in your RV to your home’s 120 volt electric system.

With a few precautions, you don’t have to worry so much about fire. And you can reduce other problems from not having electrical hookups. No mold, freezing pipes, or dead batteries. Awesome sauce!

Adapters Also Useful at RV Campgrounds

PS It’s a good idea to throw all the adapters into the RV before you leave on a road trip!

You never know when a campground isn’t going to have the right electrical service for your RV.

While you may not be able to run all the systems in your RV (most notably, the air conditioner), having limited electrical can be the difference between being able to stop and having to continue on.

Or use the generator. Which may not be allowed after hours. Be prepared with all the cool adapters!

Recommended RV Products

Here are the products that RV Tailgate Life recommends to be prepared for all RV electrical sources:

• 50a female to 30a male
• 30a female to 15a male
• Heavy duty outdoor extension cord

You May Also Like:
How to Prevent and Get Rid of RV Odors
RV Insurance Explained Before You Shop
TPMS: Protect RV Tires with Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems

The post Plugging Your RV into Home 120-Volt System appeared first on RV Tailgate Life.

But this pumpkin spice drink, my friends, is absolutely wonderful!

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links for various products below. You get the same low prices and we earn a small commission to help us buy more RV tailgating gadgets. Or game tickets if you go on a shopping spree.

The Pumpkin Spice Sangria is like the beautiful fall leaves, pumpkin patches, and an apple pie jumped into your cup!

With alcohol!

People were demanding the recipe when I debuted the drink last week at our first “fall” tailgate (you know, when the weather was cool enough you didn’t need the AC running at night). Even the guys who would never ever admit to liking anything pumpkin spice were loving it!

It’s like giving away a secret family recipe.

Really, I’m not sure I should even share this recipe with you.

It was so popular and tasty, I forgot to take pictures of the first batch until it was almost gone! But it was so popular, my fellow tailgaters demanded another batch for the next week.

At least with the second batch, I remembered to take some pictures with more than just the fruit. Even if the fruit was tasty, having soaked in the wine for 24 hours!

Fruit means it is healthy, right?

Note: it is common for the ingredients to settle out. Make sure you stir well to mix the pumpkin pie filling back into the drink before your serve.

Yes, I said pie filling. Just trust me on this, ok? Don’t worry, you won’t be eating the drink – except for the apples, of course!

You should also try these Pumpkin Swirl Brownies for another fall dessert. Plus you’ll need to use the rest of that pie filling and this recipe is perfect for that!

So without further ado…

Pumpkin Spice Sangria

Yield: 1 gallon

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Total Time: 10 minutes

Pumpkin Spice Sangria is the perfect fall tailgating drink; make ahead for the best flavor profiles.

Print

Ingredients

• 3/4 c Sugar, granulated
• 11 oz Pineapple Juice
• 11 oz Apple Juice
• 2 tsp. Pumpkin Spice
• 1/2 c Libby's Pumpkin Pie Filling
• 3 bottles Chardonnay
• 3 Granny Smith Apples (chopped or sliced)
• 5 sticks Cinnamon
• 10 oz Club Soda

Instructions

1. Mix sugar and pineapple juice in a small sauce pan over medium heat until sugar is dissolved. Pour mix into your pitcher.
2. Add remaining ingredients, except Club Soda, into pitcher. Mix well.
3. Allow sangria to chill overnight.
4. Stir well before serving with Club Soda.

Notes

It is normal for the pumpkin pie mix to settle to the bottom. Make sure to stir well before serving to get all the flavors!

Recommended Products

• 
  Organic Cinnamon Sticks
• 
  Libby's Organic Pumpkin Pie Filling
• 
  Schweppes Club Soda

Did you make this recipe?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Facebook

Pass Along the Pumpkin Spice Love

Did you like the Pumpkin Spice Sangria?

Agree that it is perfect for fall tailgating?

Share the love on Pinterest!

Don’t forget about the Pumpkin Swirl Brownies to finish off that can of pumpkin pie filling!

The post Pumpkin Spice Sangria is Fall in a Cup appeared first on RV Tailgate Life.